Bits & Pieces

The weekend arrived and I couldn’t wait to get down to see what the guys had done to my car. I wasn’t disappointed. The car was well and truly in bits and the rear axle was on the leaf springs on a pallet. The engine was out and the front suspension was in bits on the floor, all the smaller parts were all in a large plastic tub ready for me to clean up. The steering rack was out, and all that was left was the steering column and the brake servo in the sparse looking engine bay. When I asked Adam what needed to be done, there was a walk around the car and the list duly flowed forth. The rest of the engine bay to be stripped clean, pipes off, the gas pedal out, steering box out and the servo without saying. All brake pipes underneath and fuel lines, the rear valance, oh and the rear lights out, oh and the gas tank out with the shocks out too, don’t forget the rear valance of as well as that was damaged beyond repair. In fact, if it had a bolt on it, it needs to come out. The day was going to be busy and I had my instructions, I was excited and off I went. I completed my tasks as requested with the guys giving me tips and tricks of the trade as I went along. When I got to a certain part like how do I get the column out, I was shown the parts in question, told the process and off I went again. In fact I have taken lots of pictures of the removal process’ and I will write them all up. But I have some teaser pictures here for you.

Sunday I decided to clean up one of the larger bits I had in my man cave the prop shaft. Last week I explained the process (click here for the link). I took the prop shaft into the garden on the sunny day and I needed to remove the old underseal from it. The rotary wire brush made short work of it attached to the drill until I got to the UV ends. At the diff end there are two cups that are held in place by the U-clamps on the diff. These cups come off but are filled with small needle bearings and need to be treated with care so they don’t all fall out. Once the cups are removed keep them safe out-of-the-way, then it’s de-grease and clean, and clean again, and more cleaning. The grease and grime were so bad that you couldn’t even see the grease nipples. The Marine Clean in a 1:1 mix made a good job of breaking it all down.

With the prop cleaned up and de-rusted it looked a very different part that’s for sure. Off to the man cave.

I retired to the man cave for the POR15 first coat. the problem was how to paint it? I had to make a rack to hold the prop in the air so I could get access all around the prop. The idea worked well if not a little delicate, I think I will spray the prop white, the same colour as the shocks once it’s done. The full process of the painting and clean up can be seen on the quick link below.

I shall be posting the steering box removal process, soon as well as the other little projects and clean ups.  I mentioned the lights earlier!

The process was very simple, four Philips screws hold the lens and trim in place, remove them and pull the housing and the lens off to expose the bulb, remove the bulb as well. Inside the car there are four studs with nuts on for the housing, undo these and the light housing will pull out. Dead simple. I will have to replace the holders as the as reflectors are rusty and no good for anything now unfortunately.

Quick Links:

Photo Menu – Gearbox & Prop Shaft – Prop Shaft Renovation. or click here for the link. This will be updated as the project goes along.

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10 thoughts on “Bits & Pieces

  1. Great progress report. The prop is one of those nice satisfying items that start out grimy and horrible and can be made to look beautiful in a short space of time and for very little money. I had two of them to do on my Land Rover and they look like works of art now, shame that nobody will see them once fitted but at least I know that these parts have all been inspected and returned to as new state.

  2. Good going Mart..but still miles to go before I sleep….

    Just out of curiosity, Is it possible to install a new 3.7l-V6 or do you think a restored old school lump would do the job… Im only thinking of having new hardware like ABS Disc brakes and modern lights if money is no object?

    1. Hi Sami, thanks for the comment. The difference between the v8 and i6 was the spindles, suspension, steering setups etc, I believe it can go in instead of a v8 as far as I know but it could be a lot of changes. If it has a v8 in it, it would stick to that. Same goes for the i6 in it originally then you would have to upgrade the front end for it to work. I have not heard of anybody go from a v8 to an i6 to be fair as it’s usually the other way round. ABS I have not seen on a classic Mustang, but disc conversions I have and they are not to bad cost wise. Modern lights are not to expensive either unless u want the latest bulbs then it’s a wire and relay upgrade.

      1. Matt you are right… But I think you mis read… I wrote 3.7L V6 not I6 or the newer V6-Ecoboost engine. Cuz I understand the complication for making it sit sideways. Actually I was indicating towards modern hardware in a old body. Like wolf in a sheep clothing something stealth.

        Anyway like I said, miles to go before I sleep…just give your best make it the most awesome.

    1. Hi Dana, yes you are correct, I seem to be going backwards but it’s all important wotk to get a solid base to work from. I am enjoying the challenge and all the knowledge that is engulfing me. 🙂

    1. The next job is to get the glass out then it will be a shell. After that the welding can start for the chassis legs etc. I will have to remove the underseal to make sure no nasty stuff has bee hidden away. But things are moving very rapidly at the moment. It feels like 1 step forward and 10 back, but at least its being done properly.

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