Last weekend’s car show was on a Saturday and not a Sunday which made a pleasant change. It meant that I could write up about the show in my own time on the Sunday. Especially useful excuse when the wife wants me to cut the grass or do some DIY, I can’t keep my readers waiting now can I? The show was in the next county from from me, about a fifty minutes drive through some beautiful countryside of Thetford Forest. The show is listed as Anglo American Feltwell Classic Car Show which is always well attended. I managed to get to this show a couple of years ago and was surprised by the heavy American classics there. Feltwell is surrounded by some US airbases, two of the big bases are Mildenhall and Lakenheath, the smaller one is Feltwell itself. I like driving round this part of the country as the American cars from the bases are used on a daily basis and seen out and about. It always feels like home around Lakenheath as its where the serviceman was stationed that owned my car bought when he brought it to the UK with him. I was expecting plenty of American muscle and I wasn’t wrong.
I arrived at the location an hour or so after setting off with a couple mishaps on the way. The first being a water mains was leaking and running down an incline of a road. My nice clean car was now getting splattered with dirty water. To those behind me, it must have looked as though I was intoxicated trying to drive around the little streams trying to mitigate the dirt sticking to the car. The second issue was me missing the entrance to the show. It was ‘sign posted’ (I use that in the loosest of terms), by the odd bit of A4 paper stuck on the odd lamp post. I saw a few cars pulling into the turning in my mirrors and pulled over into into a layby. When there was a gap in the traffic I started the six point turn in the middle of the road. No sooner had I started my manoeuvres a dozen cars or so in each direction came into view, I couldn’t write it. Yep, I was that person who held everybody up! Once I turned around in what seemed like minutes, I pulled into the narrow lane and was directed onto the field. The marshal told me that they were going to keep all the Mustangs together, that was the theory but it didn’t work out that way.
The weather was holding out, with periods of sunshine and the odd cloud. I got straight to work on cleaning the car, when a couple of friends caught up with me (also fellow Mustang owners), and asked me if I needed therapy as my car had gotten dirty. I did say that I needed to lay down in a darkened room to get over the trauma though.
By the time I had finished cleaning, the show which started at ten was getting busy. Time for my wander round for the photo’s and started at the back of the field and worked my way up and down the lines.
At the end of the first line there was a nice Ford truck with a Mustang on a trailer. It didn’t get moved off the trailer, so I don’t know if it had been picked up or being delivered, but it made for a few nice shots.
Moving onto the second row of cars, many more were still coming into the show, even though it had now opened to the public.
This slammed Lincoln was getting some interest from the younger public.
The guy who owned this Thunderbird also owned a couple of other cars, namely the white Studebaker from the first batch of photos of this post.
The next row was where the Mustangs started, they were also scattered around the field, but I collated all the Mustangs here. The first one I think has an identity crisis and was trying to identify as number of Mustangs according to the grill. The limited edition Bullitt Mustangs were out in force and was parked either side of me.
Lot’s of great newer American muscle cars here too but they didn’t look out of place with the classics.
There was bunch of trucks together, I’m not sure if it was by organisation or not, but it was interesting to see how they have grown in size up to the massive orange Dodge Ram (which was also for sale at £120,000).
The rest of the cars from the lines in no particular order.
There was a number of motorbikes coming in and out throughout the day, mostly Harley Davdisons.
After my wandering up and down the lines I took a well earned break for a spot of lunch and got the chair out for some serious people watching. I was going to get a burger, but when I saw the price of £8 and heard the not so pleasant comments about them, I decided against it.
Although it has to be said the beer tent did look tempting for an ice cold beer, but I won’t drink and drive.
During my rest up watching the world go by, then I spotted them, two plod. They were wandering around the car show looking at the cars.
I heard one of them ask one guy about his number plate to which the guy said “no it’s just my show plate”. I can’t say for sure why they were there, perhaps they wanted to look at the lovely cars, or was it something more sinister? Surely they had better things to do? Everybody was on best behaviour, no revving up engines or leaving the show sideways. The plod walked past the front of my car and looked at my reg plate, I was expecting some sort of comment, although I’m allowed black plates with silver numbers. Perhaps they thought my plate was a show plate as well and didn’t bother. Regardless of what they were up to, I wouldn’t have engaged with them.
Marts Car of The Show:
This was it, a beautiful Oldsmobile Holiday. It caught my eye from a distance where I initially thought it was Chevy Bel Air. I was hoping to chat with the owner, but I didn’t catch them sadly. The car was immaculate and a seriously loved car by the looks of it.
The show was due to finish at four, but a number of cars started to leave around lunch. I got talking to few nice people and with a guy who was telling me about buying his Mustang from new in the ’60s, I love those stories. At two in the afternoon I made the decision to leave as the sun was coming out less frequently and the clouds were getting darker.
The journey home was amazing and peaceful, apart from my exhaust note through the forest on the way home. The water leak I drove through on the way here had stopped and dried up on the road where it had previously been running down. I arrived home and wiped the car down straight away to put it away. The house was quiet apart from the energetic greetings of the dogs. I plonked myself on the sofa and looked at the photo’s I had taken for this post to do a bit of quality control. Before I knew it, I had nodded off for an hour, I was only woken up by the sound of the dogs having a mental at the wife as she returned home from her hair appointment. What a great way to end the day after a great show.
I have been in conversation with magazine publishers called ‘STANG Magazine’, and sent them a few photos of my car. They have added my car to their Special Edition, Editor’s Choice November 2026 latest publication of the magazine which is available online now.
The front and back covers of their magazine.
They sent me the article they was going to publish which I have added here with their permission.
I wanted to help the guys out, so I asked them for some details about their STANG Magazine and they responded with a few paragraphs for me:
“ The new King of Mustang Magazines: How STANG just made history.
For decades, the legendary Mustang Monthly held the ultimate crown in automotive publishing. Between 1978 and 2020, they produced a staggering 502 issues over 42 years of solid Mustang content. That record was considered unbeatable as there is a new record holder.
STANG Magazine has officially broken the record for the most issues ever published by any Mustang magazine in history.
While it took the previous record-holder 42 years to reach their milestone, STANG Magazine smashed past their milestone in just 12 years. With the release of Issue #503, the crown has officially changed hands. We give a massive nod of respect to the former king, but the throne now belongs to a new era.
Fun Facts: STANG Magazine by the Numbers
1,000,000+ monthly global readers.
503+ issues published and counting.
12 years to break a 42-year-old record.
$0 spent on paid advertising.
100% free to read online.
Built For the People, By the People
STANG Magazine was built on a simple promise: to give Mustang enthusiasts exactly what they asked for. Founder and Editor-in-Chief Daniel Ramey launched the publication to break the traditional media mold.
The philosophy is straightforward:
No Ads: Zero sales pitches or corporate fluff.
No Fillers: Just pure Mustang pictures and stories.
Real Rides: Focused on daily drivers, not just “trailer queens.”
Community First: Created by Mustang owners, for Mustang owners.
A Global Grassroots Phenomenon
STANG Magazine didn’t reach the top through massive corporate backing. It grew purely through grassroots, word-of-mouth popularity. What started with passionate owners using their phones and cameras to share adventures has evolved into a global powerhouse. Today, it stands as the first Mustang publication to be available worldwide in both print and digital formats. It has reached readers in almost every single country on Earth.
The Mustang legacy is alive, well, and officially rewritten. As Daniel Ramey says: “Enjoy the ride, and who you ride with!” “
I was previously unaware of STANG magazine to be honest, but found their home page online here:
I’m not being paid for this post, I just wanted to give them a shout out and they deserve a little free exposure. After seeing the proposed article I wanted a hard copy of the magazine if it was possible and asked them for details how to go about getting one. They replied with, ‘Yes you can order one, we print them to order’, so I did two in fact. I paid via PayPal and they shipped it right to my door in just over a week. I was really impressed with the quality of the magazine, it wasn’t printed on flimsy paper, it wasn’t full of ads or random fluffiness, just high quality colour spreads front to back.
The inside cover and first leaf.
A random opening of the magazine to another article;
Towards the back a model posed with a Mustang.
The inside of the back over.
A little background from me; I used to be a printer. I served a four year apprenticeship in the city of London when I left school mid term to take the job when it came up. Once my apprenticeship was completed and signed off officially, I could be known as a ‘Master Craftsman’ for my trade. Unfortunately that trade died with the onslaught of Adobe Photoshop 3.0 (on floppy discs, remember those?) and the relentless progression of Cromalin proofing. My roots are still with the print and I still miss that job, I loved it. To this day I still enjoy printed material of books and magazines and collect special editions where I can. I don’t care what people say, nothing beats reading and holding a book, turning the pages and the smell for the experience of a good read.
Although I’m sad about Mustang Monthly no longer being in print, I can understand why. The internet has a lot to answer for with the death of many printed publications turning to online. Then on the other hand, no trees are being cut down for paper unnecessarily. I even had copies of Mustang Monthly shipped over to me in the UK and enjoyed reading them while learning a few things as well. Of course I can now read all that information online and STANG Magazine is now part of that revolution. It has to be noted that producing printed material was, and still is expensive and the printed publications (no mater what the subject) relied on advertising to make their money. Due to editing, proofing and press lead in times many publications were monthly, hence why it took so long to get the lofty numbers of Mustang Monthly, compared to online publications, which can be up for the world to see in a matter of hours. That being said, it takes nothing away from STANG Magazine and I’m personally pleased that they offer the option to have a printed copy if you wanted one. It wasn’t a cheap publication by the time it was shipped to me the UK, that isn’t STANG Magazine’s fault by any means, but when it comes to my car – it was worth it.
For a few years I have been doing some tweaks here and there on the car, one of those bigger projects was the LED bulbs all round. At the back of the car the rear licence plate bulb was the biggest pain to source one that would fit in the original factory housing. I tried many variations some were close others not so. The left pic below is the now dedicated draw now allocated for bulbs, the right pic shows the original bulb (copper bottom) in the middle, with the other trial and errors bulbs around it. Some were too long, too wide or the bulb glass (plastic) to bulbous to fit under the lamp holders glass cover itself. Then there was front focussed light, 360o light shine, light pattern, colour temperature, brightness, bottom housing fitting, wattage etc etc. Some bulbs what I thought would look good were in fact quite poor lighting options when plugged into my dummy rig to see what they would look like before I took the holder off the rear bumper and started making a mod to the wiring loom.
I spent many an hour making mods to a couple of the bulbs that had potential with the Dremel in a vain attempt to make them fit. A slight slip of the Dremel grinder ruined a promising bulb that was just a bit to wide, luckily those bulbs came in pairs.
The before and after of the grinding was fine, there was no cover for these LEDs themselves which shouldn’t be to much of a problem as the bulb sits behind a opaque glass bowl if you like. To make the bulb fit under the glass properly it would need more work on one side of the bulb fitting, in doing so it would be getting dangerously close to the LEDs themselves. Before I got carried away I quickly put it back together with the glass cover sort of half in place held by a bit of clear tape to see what it would look like at night, it wasn’t good. There was so much white light I could expect a pull over from the local plod in their donut cars as you’re not supposed to show white to the rear in the UK. This bulb was on another level and would be more like towing a WWII search light behind me.
That bulb was discarded and the original put back in for now. After many, many searches and I eventually found a match same size bulb and voltage. Best of all it was a comparable wattage to the original bulb, I placed the order which was shipped from China (of course) to the UK.
The new bulb was still quite bright, but I figured it should be OK.
This LED bulb thing is all a little bit of a moot point as I tend not to drive at night anyway. However, if I needed to, then the LED bulbs are a significant improvement for safety. The reason I mention all this now is because of a recent trip trip to Mustang Maniac where I watched as they were making a custom fit LED board for a customer’s car. They had to make bulbs from bulbs and then set the brightness. I wasn’t aware that it could be done to that degree and spent some time with Mark to see how I could make their ideas work for me.
I purchased a box of various resistors taking on board the advice I was given. This box is complete overkill of 350 pcs, I only wanted one or maybe two variations of a resistor. The complete box was the cost only a large coffee so I couldn’t complain.
There’s a lot to understand about resistors; basically wattage and resistance describe two different, but connected processes a resistor performs in a circuit. First is Ohms (Ω) tell you how much the resistor limits electrical current, a higher Ohm value means more resistance and less current flow. Second is Wattage (W) tells you how much power the resistor can safely dissipate as heat without burning out. So the Ohms value sets the electrical behaviour, while the Watt rating sets the physical durability. A resistor with the right resistance but too low a Wattage may overheat, whereas a resistor with the correct Wattage but wrong resistance will change how the circuit works. You can also fit a resistor either direction as they aren’t polarised. If you need a specific Ohm rating you can add one after the other to achieve the correct rating.
As the licence plate bulb only has a single live feed, the earth is handled via the bodywork. The live feed just needs an inline resistor so the LED’s bulb brightness is reduced as a result.
In the trunk the live is taken from the rear drive lights feed via a T-junction split and a connector. The wire then passes behind the rear bumper to the lamp holder out of direct line of sight. This will be a quick task to make up an insert male and female fitting at each end to connect it back up again. If I don’t want to use the resistor, I can just remove the inserted resistor and reconnect the original wire back to the normal live feed voltage.
When I rewired the car I didn’t use all the options of the American Autowire kit, that left me with various amounts wires of different colours and a number of connectors to go with them. A short clip from one of the coils of wire I used was the same gauge as the live feed about to be modified.
The short wire was cut in half and each end of the wire was tinned with the soldering iron. My American Autowire crimps were pulled out of retirement and used to secure the male spade connector and protected with heat shrink.
The resistor I chose was a 330 Ohms which should roughly half the output. In order to make the resistor lay flat inline; wrap the wire leg of the resistor around a small jewellers screwdriver the same size as the gauge of wire to be used forming a tight coil. I didn’t realise the picture was out of focus (sorry), but you get the idea. Trim the coil flush to make sure no sharp parts are sticking up and potentially cause a short.
Thread the new wire into the coil and add some flux, fresh solder on the iron and tap it onto the join you just created. Before the last female spade connector is added slide over the shrink wrap and then repeat the process and solder the other end of the resistor. Add a spade protector on the female spade connector and crimp. Once completed and fully heat shrunk, I checked the resistance with a multi-meter to make sure connections were solid and working.
To create the inline project that I wanted, the live feed wire needed to be modified to add the additional spade fitting rather than a direct solder of the resistor, my fail safe if you like. This additional could then be re-joined in seconds to the main loom if needed, or connect another resistor inline back to the main rear end wire harness. I remade the duel spade (T-junction) split along with the new single connection needed for the lamp holder.
With the new inline resistor in place it only added a couple of extra inches so the extra length could easily be hidden back behind the filler cap support. Here the fittings are in place to recreate the original look before I added the resistor.
With everything in place the garage door was closed and turned the lights off. I turned the car’s lights on and I could see that everything was working fine. Once the door was open again I could finish the job by wrapping the wire loom up with some cloth OEM look wire loom tape, but not on the resistor section as that may need to dissipate heat, not that it gets that hot anyway. The resistor section is insulated by the heat shrink and the rubber spade fitting covers.
Until I can get a good view in the dark and out in the open I wont be able to see if the light output is adequate or still too much. The results so seem to be what I’m after and not far away from the original bulb output, all be it a cleaner light.
With that in mind while the soldering iron was still hot and the resistors were out, I repeated the process for another inline with a resistance of 220 Ohms which will allow a little brighter light than the installed 330 Ohms. It will only take seconds to swap out which is the beauty of this idea. If the result still isn’t what I’m after, I can just knock up some more variations until I’m happy. There is no after picture of the rear loom as it’s all hidden away again, and nothing to see.
The only visible difference is the cool white light instead of the dull orange glow of the original incandescent bulb. The change to the lighting type of the cool white light picks out the silver lettering from the black background of the licence plate better for more effect.
Before & after comparison of the resistance hack:
A short and sweet little project from something that was in the back of my mind that needed addressing at some point. It’s funny how a chance conversation can lead to these little projects, all sorted for now.
The second show of the year today, but I wasn’t sure it was going to happen. One weather app said rain, the other two said cold and overcast at 17o. My wife was saying to me that I was mad at seven thirty this morning, I almost agreed with her. But, like a true trooper I powered through it. The cool bag was packed with a light lunch, but mostly drinks. The first stop this morning was going to be fuel at the Shell petrol station for a bit of open wallet surgery via a fill up of some V-Power. The guy in the next pump also had a classic Talbot Lotus was getting a fill up, we were having a chat taking our minds of the money on the display updating faster than a hundred meter stop watch. I asked “are you going to the Stonham Barns show?” He replied with no “me and a few mates were just going for a drive and some lunch”. That is awesome, enjoying his car with his mates and have a lunch looking at classic cars. The show at Stonham Barns has become a bit of local show. The show started at ten, but I got there at eight forty and there was only about tenor so other display cars there. My logic was to get in before the carnage waiting to get in. As it turned out I didn’t need to worry, I wasn’t that busy a show all day. I was directed into the main arena and direct to park next to a 1965 Mustang finished in vintage Burgundy metallic. The panels on our cars are the same, but there are some obvious exterior trim and interior changes between the two years.
I gave the car it’s customary quick detail to remove any road dust, During my ritual therapeutic dust off, the wind must have been just right as I got a waft of cooking, bacon! The burger fan was calling, my wallet was tucked in the jacket pocket while on the way, a purposeful stride with my nose leading the way. I ordered the sausage, as that looked even better than the bacon, to enhance my culinary delight I added cheese and some onions topped with a line of tomato sauce. I took a seat to enjoy my well deserved breakfast after my car cleaning. A crow flew down and was hopping around near the table, it was rewarded with small bit of the roll that I shared with it. At the price I just paid, it wasn’t going to get a lot. A sucker for wild life I relented and shared more with my new found friend. The more I gave, the bolder it got almost taking the bread out of my hand. The funny part was it hopped on the other side of the table and gave me the eye for more, that also worked and got more breakfast with me. I was trying to take a photo, and hold the roll at the same time, I think I did OK considering.
After the rather awesome roll I chatted with a few human friends I have seen for the first time this year. Then it was off to take some photos of the other cars. The show didn’t have a huge amount of cars which was a shame, but the quality of cars on show was great except for a few Walmart wagons that were allowed in, which was surprising as the info said pre ’70s.
As I was walking around the outer part of the arena more cars were coming in to park in the centre and started a couple of new rows.
Outside the arena was also getting busier as the arena was now full, I found a few of the finned beauties. I’m a bit partial to a fin it has to be said, they’re just mobile works of art.
Wandering back up the field there was only really another line.
This Pontiac caught my eye and almost got my personal winning vote.
That just leaves my winning vote; Mart’s Car of The Show. The artwork on the back of this was Ford was amazing, I hate to think how long and how much this was. The emblem on the cowl clinched it for me though!
A grey overcast day, it wasn’t full of cars, but it was pleasant with a lot of cars I hadn’t seen before and a few I had. The show was not really a family day, this was more of a true petrol head day out and spoke to lots of lovely people. I left just after two as a few other were starting to leave as well. A good show, no queue to get in and everything was very calm and civilised. My madness of getting up paid of as I enjoyed the show, even though I walking around with my jacket on. For change on the way there and and on the way home there was morons on the road that were near me and I had relaxing and gentle cruise home.
Last Sunday was the first booked car show for me at Kersey Mill a short trip fifteen miles away about thirty minutes away. This year the plan was to go the back route for a relaxing scenic drive with no pressure of the main roads. Before I had even got out of my little village or off choke at eight thirty on a Sunday morning, some idiot nearly took me out being on my side of the road coming round a corner. If I had of been doing thirty miles an hour it would have been a head on crash, best of it was he had a young kid in the front seat as well. I think I may have woken a few people up as my window was down as I expressed my displeasure in a raised tone, nothing from the driver he just carried on.
The rest of the drive was serene and enjoyable, many of the little villages that I passed through had speed limits in place so the car was just running on tick over through them, hence the longer time to get there. The marshal on the gate asked me if I was with a club which I wasn’t and directed me to field four. The trouble was I missed the entrance to the area and carried on round the corner. The marshal here was the opposite, a little bit of power had gone to his head and wouldn’t allow me to go back to the other field, about five seconds round the corner, even though nothing was coming up the path. Instead he ‘told’ me to park next to a red Alpha under a row of trees, err no! In my defiance I parked in the middle of the hard standing to keep away from tree sap and potential bird deposits. He didn’t look to impressed, I didn’t care to be honest, within a minute or so I was being surrounded with other cars with the same thoughts as me. I was next to cherry blossom tree which smelt amazing.
This is a great show with lots of different cars on display, from steam driven oldies to the less attractive couple of year old Tesco car park specials, I don’t bother taking photos of those, even with that in mind, I still ended up taking over two hundred pics.
I started taking photos in the hard standing area which was near the near the food, the smell of bacon rolls added to the lovely morning fresh air. Speaking of air this Chevy Bel Air (see what I did there) was pristine.
Walking through the end of the hard standing there was another field with lots more cars and a couple of car clubs, mainly Mini and Lotus.
My runner up car of the show is this glorious Model A, a rust patina special. This is about as original as it will ever get. Credit to the guy who drove it in.
This Mustang is modified with a wide body kit and Lambo doors, you either like the doors or you don’t. For me I can appreciate the work involved, but it’s not my thing I’m afraid.
Moving back to towards the mill itself there were some great oldies parked in prime positions at the front.
Around the side of the house were some super cars where I caught up with my Mate Craig, who has shared some of his photos with me for this post.
Either side of the main path into the mill itself there are display areas either side.
I used to play a game ‘Need for Speed Underground’ and my son used to customise this car to the max, the legendary Toyota Supra. Not seen one of these spec cars for a while.
This 1966 Plymouth Barracuda fastback was amazing, the rear glass section on this car is a work of art, I wouldn’t want to try and source one of them if it broke!
Mart’s Car of the Show
I haven’t seen an original untouched BMW M3 E30 (the proper M3) for such a long time, then this beauty parked up just behind me. A modern classic that dominated touring car racing late 80’s and early 90’s. He didn’t stay that long, but I’m glad I caught some pics of it.
Early afternoon a few cars started to leave, Craig and Lee decided to bring their cars into the show and parked up next to me and we had our own mini car show. After some lunch and a chat they went of for more car spotting and photos while I desperately tried to keep myself from falling asleep due to the early start, busy pretending to keep an eye on the cars.
Thanks to Lee, for this artistic pic. You can find him on Instagram @s2kathome
A little while later I decided to leave around three to miss the traffic as the show closed at four. Craig stood in a strategic place and caught some cars leaving.
He even managed to grab a couple of me leaving too. Thanks Craig for the pics.
I absolutely love this picture.
The drive home was just as leisurely as the drive there. What is better than a scenic route home, window open and a V8 rumble in your ears? A great day out with mates and looking forward to more. Hopefully I will catch up with Craig and Lee at more shows this year with our cars together.
After the quick detail to remove the road dust and put the car away, I plonked myself on the sofa and feel asleep for an hour (or so) cuddled up with my little dog. What a great way to end the day.
There is often a myth that keeping a car covered up with a dedicated fitted breathable cover in the garage will look exactly as it did when you get it out as when you put it away. Visually that may be true, apart from dust and visible debris on the dust cover. But what about the rest of the car? Providing the environment is ideal, like humidity, temperature, sunlight and wind all should be as it was and prevention is the better path than rectification. My dehumidifier which is always on, is set to the optimum range of 55% to 60%. In addition to that I have a dedicated radiator controlled by a thermostat valve in the garage which is set at a minimum low temp to keep damp and cold away in the winter. Some call it excessive or a waste of money, but it will help protect the car. It took me while to convince the wife, but she did see the point, in the end. The garage walls are insulated along with the roller door witch has a good rubber seal to the floor to stop drafts. Even insulating the concreate with dedicated garage floor tiles on the standing area can make a big difference to that prevent cold and damp rising up from the floor causing unseen damage under your car.
Humidity and temperature swings are two of the most underestimated threats to a classic car. Even when a vehicle is stored indoors like a garage or workshop, the air around it is constantly expanding, contracting, and carrying moisture. That moisture could settle on cold metal surfaces, creating condensation, the perfect starting point for rust. Brake lines, fuel tanks, exhaust systems, and even internal engine components can begin to corrode long before you see any visible signs. High humidity will accelerate the deterioration of rubber components, causing hoses, belts, and seals to soften, swell, or crack. Over time, this could lead to leaks, poor running from split vacuum hoses, or brake servos not working correctly, failures that seem to appear out of nowhere. The longer a car sits in these type of environments the more exposure to problems. Carburettors and fuel systems suffer as moisture mixes with old petrol, forming varnish and sludge clogging jets and making cold starts a nightmare. Electrical connectors oxidise, creating intermittent faults that are notoriously difficult to trace. Even interior components aren’t safe — dashboards can crack from heat and direct sunlight, vinyl can warp or split and adhesives can fail when exposed to repeated hot‑cold cycles. If there is no air movement in the car then you are inviting mould and damp to cause havoc. I always leave my windows a little open to allow the air to move. My dehumidifier not only keeps the humidity where it should be, but it also circulates the air and gives of a certain amount of heat from the motor, so my garages never gets cold as such. The main point is to avoid the extremes in your storage location what ever that may be. At weekends I open the garage door to either potter around or clean the cars, this will give a change of air and keep things fresh.
Classic cars have a charm that modern vehicles simply can’t replicate, the raw driving feel, the analogue simplicity, the unmistakable character ageless looks and even the smell. But beneath that nostalgia lies a truth that every classic owner eventually learns: these machines need attention. Not just the occasional polish or Sunday run, but real, regular mechanical care. Ignoring the mechanical side of a classic car is one of the quickest ways to turn a cherished vehicle into a costly headache. Just because you don’t use it, doesn’t mean things don’t go wrong. For reasons explained above being just some of them.
Even if a classic looks immaculate on the inside and out, its mechanical components could still decades old. Rubber hardens and cracks, seals dry out, and metal corrodes quietly out of sight. A very dear friend of mine, who has a one of the very first 64 1/2 Mustangs once said to me “Even with all this prevention in the garage, I can hear my car rusting in the house”. These problems are especially true with some modern and cheaper after market parts. A brake hose that looks fine at a glance can balloon under pressure and fail without warning sending you straight to the scene of an accident. Fuel lines can become brittle and leak, turning a simple start‑up into a fire risk. Gearbox seals could leak meaning no drive leaving you stranded. Suspension bushes degrade slowly, transforming a once‑tight ride into something vague and unpredictable. These aren’t dramatic failures, they’re the natural result of time, temperature changes, and materials that were never designed to last half a century.
It’s easy to assume that a classic car kept tucked away in a garage is safe from harm, tyres can develop flat spots, batteries sulphate and lose capacity, and clutches can seize to flywheels, brakes can get stuck to drums or discs. Even exhaust systems rust from the inside out as condensation collects and never burns off, the rubber hangers can perish and the next bump or pothole could dislodge the hanger and your exhaust is ripped from the car in the best case, in the worse case it cause huge damage under the car. The phrase “it ran perfectly when I parked it” is often the start of a long list of repairs.
After all those horror points above, the good news is that most of these issues are preventable with regular checks and a bit of mechanical sympathy. Running the car up to temperature, exercising the brakes, and keeping fluids fresh all go a long way. Replacing ageing rubber components, before they fail is far cheaper than dealing with the damage they can cause. Above all, driving the car — even just a short, gentle run — keeps everything moving, lubricated, and healthy.
Classic cars reward the owners who look after them. A little attention now keeps the big problems at bay, preserves the car’s value (which was the main winning point to the wife for the radiator), and ensures it’s always ready for that next drive making you smile and not grimace.
Why do I mention this again? Because a scenario happened to me. I always inspect my car, when cleaning it, especially before a new car show season and take my car down to Mustang Maniac for a full on once over and MOT. I a nice day was forecast during the week and the car was taken for the first drive this year. On the first drive out, it’s always careful and steady to make sure all is well before I start the sixty mile journey to Mustang Maniac. Over the winter I always run my fuel very low so it doesn’t go off or hold moisture. To get to the Mustang Maniac yard I would need a fill up at Shell V-Power which cost me £85 to fill up. Have I mentioned that our robbing government applies 53% ‘fuel duty’ onto every litre of fuel and then add another 20% VAT (Value Added Tax) onto that initial cost after the fuel duty as well, that’s tax on a tax!
The drive down was fine, a little clunk now and again on some parts of the road, every so often a little vague on the steering. A I pulled into the yard the car was lifted straight up into the air for the underside pre MOT checks.
The car was now filthy underneath on arrival, Adam and Mark checked things over as I freaked out trying to clean around where they weren’t checking. Mark did make a comment, not that I can repeat his comment on a family blog, but it was along the lines of; please can you get out the way 😂 He was right though, I was getting in the way, dirt was upsetting my OCD and I had to clean the white bits and the more difficult bits to get to when the car is on the floor. A large bag of new car cleaning white towels were taken with me just for this purpose along with some degreaser and detailing products.
Meanwhile inspections moved from the back to the front of the car where Adam found some play in the lower control arm ball joint on the passenger side. It was a very short discussion to replace it. Adam returned a couple of minutes later with a new boxed one. Since being restored eleven years ago now, the car has only done 7,000 miles since then. Why this particular ball joint failed we don’t know, it has always greased and there was no reason for it to have failed, but it had. This goes a long way to prove a point that I made at the beginning, you can’t take it for granted that if it looks new and not used, the car is actually road worthy!
The lower arm separated easily and wasn’t too much of a job, this part doesn’t need a geometry reset as it can only go back in one place. The offending arm unceremoniously hanging in the wind here as the cross member had to be partially loosened to get the main bolt out.
While everything was being bolted back into place at the front, I started to work on the rear brakes. The drums came off where the shoes and drums were checked over for any unusual wear or damage. Things still looked great after a little brake cleaner and a compressed air blow through.
The rear shoes were backed off, the drums and wheels put back on. The car was be lowered to the ground onto it’s own weight so that all the wheels could be torqued up correctly before being lifted back up in the air to adjust the rear brakes properly.
After everything was adjusted I took the car for a little road test and back to the yard as the guys wanted to know all was good before they let me take a longer drive. Adam called the MOT guys to say I was on the way, a little later than expect due to the suspension fix. The MOT centre was a quick drive some fifteen miles away. I arrived and was directed straight into the garage where I handed the keys over to the MOT guys to do their thing.
The car passed the test with flying colours and I’m all set for another year of safe motoring. The car needs a proper good ol’ clean now and a service of oil and checking of fluids once again. After the MOT I called back into Mustang Maniac as I have to basically drive past it. Adam gave me an old box to put my failed control arm in as I wanted to take it apart when I get a moment which was today.
I cleaned the arm up noting there was plenty of grease about which you can see and around the top of the ball joint. The rubber was in perfect condition and not perished.
I cut the rubber off the ball joint which was still substantial and needed a few cuts all the way round to get it off.
I cleaned all the grease away to expose the top of the ball joint, nothing out of the ordinary struck me, apart from the fact it was extremely notchy and stiff.
The grease nipple was removed and I checked the grease depth with a thin screwdriver which was full of grease and fresh grease at that.
I tried to take a couple of photos to show inside where the grease can just about be seen.
I turned back to the rubber and spotted one small point, a section inside the gator was dry, no grease there at all, but there was full grease elsewhere. Very odd, you can see the dry part where I just happened to make the vertical and slanted cuts.
Reverting back to the control arm I had another up close inspection, There top of the ball joint was scared marked with the arrows on the stud at the base (left side of the pic below). To the right there are a couple of arrows that are pointing to a sharp lip which looks to have broken.
The tolerances on that side of the collar (below left) are bigger than the tolerances on the opposite side (below right).
All I can think is that perhaps I have jammed my car down a pot hole, which I don’t remember as I always drive around them. Or I have caused damage driving over a crappy field or two to park up for a show, that I do remember, frequently. I did squirt some Gibbs Brand Lubricant into the grease nipple hole and around the top of the ball joint. Letting Gibbs penetrate for a while I could start working it around which did eventually free up and was movable by hand again, but it did still feel very grindy.
The only thing I can think of is that a piece has lodge somewhere and cause a seizure that I can’t see causing the wear and the eventual failure. The movement was notchy and what felt does feel like a score mark somewhere. But I can’t really see any thing glaringly wrong with the part in the first place.
Tips for greasing the control arms.
Locate the grease fittings on the control arms, bushings and ball joints. Wipe each fitting clean before attaching the grease gun; forcing grease through a dirty fitting can push grit into the joint. Pump slowly until you see the old, dirty grease begin to purge out of the boot. That’s your signal that the cavity is full and fresh lubricant has displaced the old material. While you’re under there, look for cracked rubber boots, torn bushings, or joints that won’t take grease at all, those are signs the component may be worn or damaged.
Never over‑pressurise the joint; if you keep pumping after the boot is full, you can rupture the rubber and shorten the life of the part. Never use the wrong grease for suspension components which typically need a high‑quality chassis grease, not general‑purpose or lithium‑complex greases meant for other systems. Never grease a joint that’s clearly damaged in hopes of “quieting it down” as lubrication won’t fix a worn ball joint or bushing. It goes without saying that driving on a failing suspension component can be dangerous, potentially lethal.
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Taking you back to the beginning of this post, older cars like to be driven. If these classic cars and not just American muscle, any classic car is standing for a length of time especially outside, don’t take it for granted everything is fine next time you get back in it. Always give the car a full check over before a new season starts, typically when many classic cars come out to play, or when you get the car out from any sort of storage. The annual oil change is an ideal time to climb around under the car, check the rubber bushing and grease everything. Check for oil leaks, or fluid leaks. Always check the brake fluid, transmission and radiator fluids, washer bottles etc. Take mechanical care to maintain your car and not just for the looks of it. Even with all that said, I still had a failure for no logical reason at all, as all initial inspections looked fine. Would driving my car help in this control arm failure instance? I very much doubt it, but something failed and a serious mechanical part at that. What I mentioned at he beginning is still very relevant and you really should pay attention to it and make it a best practice every year. After all that?
It’s known that I’m a bit of car cleaning weekend warrior. Not just my Mustang at car shows, but my daily drivers too. There is a problem with wet washing which drives me mad, hard water. In my area of the country the water is notoriously bad. I will explain this in a bit more detail as I have been looking into various water filtration options, so this post and an article all in one. Hope its not to long.
What Exactly Is ‘Hard Water’?
In simple terms, hard water is the stuff that comes out of your mains water supply with a high mineral content. While rain water is naturally soft, as it percolates through the ground into our reservoirs and aquifers, it picks up bits of calcium, magnesium, and sometimes even chalk or limestone. By the time it travels through the pipes, get treated at water plants and add chlorine to that as well, it then travels down miles of pipes and reaches your household taps and your garden hose, it’s a mineral cocktail.
While some minerals might be fine for you, they are the absolute nemesis for a clean car. When you spray that tap water onto your paintwork and let it dry, the H2O (water) evaporates back into the air, but the minerals stay left behind. They can bond to the surface, creating those stubborn unsightly “water spots” or “limescale” marks that we all dread as car detailers, or even the weekend warriors who just want a shiny car. This is a reason why car detailers carry their own water around to make their life easier and avoid those water marks. Sometimes these marks looks like a small octopus has climbed over your car, the rings look exactly like that, but whitish. Most people think water spots are just an aesthetic nuisance, a bit of white dust that can be wiped away. The real danger lies in what happens when those minerals from the mains water are left to bake in the sun. Calcium and magnesium (also bird mess) are alkaline. When they sit on your clear coat (or your single-stage paint if you’re still running an original classic paint), they begin a process called etching. It’s like a tiny, slow-motion chemical burn taking place. The minerals actually eat into the surface of the paint. If you run your finger over a bad water spot, you might feel a slight indentation. That’s not dirt sitting on the paint; that’s the paint itself being damaged. Once it reaches that stage, no amount of washing or polishing will fix it.
Damage Control: Removing Water Spots Without Killing Your Wax
If you’ve found your pride and joy covered in these white rings, you need to be careful before diving into removal. Most people reach for household remedies, but if you’ve spent all Saturday applying a high-quality carnauba wax or a high-tech sealant, the wrong “fix” will strip that protection off in seconds.
1. The Chemical Route – The Professional Way
Before you start rubbing the paint, try a dedicated Water Spot Remover. Products like CarPro Spotless, Gtechniq W9, Chemical Guys Heavy Duty Water Spot Remover Gyeon Q2M water spot remover etc. are all specifically formulated with mild acids that break down the bond between the mineral and the paint while being as gentle as possible on the underlying surface.
2. The Vinegar Dilemma
A 50/50 mix of white vinegar and distilled water is the classic “old school” fix. The acetic acid in the vinegar is great at dissolving calcium.
The Catch: Vinegar is an acid. While it’s great for the spots, it is brutal on car wax. If you use vinegar to clean your spots, you are effectively stripping away your wax protection. It leaves the paint naked as such and vulnerable to the next lot of hard water or UV rays. If you do use this method, you really should re-wax the area immediately.
The “No-Go” List: Chemicals That Destroy the protection of your wax and sealants while fighting hard water, avoid these like the plague:
All-Purpose Cleaners (APC) & Degreasers: Many people use these to “boost” their wash. Don’t. High-alkaline cleaners are designed to break down oils and waxes. They will leave your sealant patchy and ineffective.
Dish Soap (e.g., Fairy Liquid or Dawn Ultra etc.): These are an ultimate sin, yes they clean, but often have elements of salt as a stabilizer. We know what salt can do cars – rust! Dish soap is designed to strip grease from pans, it will strip every bit of wax off your car, leaving the paint dry and prone to more severe water etching. Addition of salt that could be left behind, you are making things worse.
Bleach-Based Cleaners: Never let anything containing bleach near your car. It will dry out your rubber trim and chemically attack the clear coat.
Aggressive Household Limescale Removers: Products meant for your bathroom tiles are far too acidic. They won’t just remove the water spots; they can stain the paint and permanently dull the finish.
Alcohol-Heavy Sprays: While Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is great for prep, using it as a “quick fix” for water spots, it will also instantly dissolve any wax or polymer sealant you have on the car. Good for starting from scratch if you want to rewax your car to remove old tired layers of wax or sealants.
Abrasive Pads: Dish scouring pads or bathroom cleaning pads, you know the sort with the sponge and a layer of plastic nylon to get seriously aggressive with stubborn cleaning jobs. They will destroy your paint and can even lead to having a respray, DON’T do it. Polishing pads used by professionals are virtually always foam, sometimes lambs wool for deep cutting or heavy paint correction. I don’t need to mention steel wool pads either do I? That is obviously, down to bare metal stuff.
All of this now leads into what I’ve just bought to save me time and effort to remove water spots; ‘Prevention is better than correction’. I have been looking into the ‘Spotless’ washing systems. This is treatment of the water that you put on your cars which will stop the water spots appearing in the first place. My purchased was a Spotless water system by ‘SpotBye’ and I’ve used it to create a review. I have created that page here, or click the link below for the complete setup guide, and a review of the results. Spoiler alert, it’s a game changer!
If like me you’re stuck with hard water from the tap, you have to change your strategy. You can’t really just drench the whole car and then dry it at the end, well you could, but it won’t be a great finish. This is especially true on my black cars that shows the world and his mate for any marks what so ever. Try working smarter, not harder with a couple of tips from me:
The Sectional Wash: Work on one panel at a time. Wash the roof, rinse it with the hose, and dry it immediately. This prevents the tap water from sitting long enough to evaporate and leave minerals behind. Move onto the hood, then the fenders and doors etc. Work your way down the car, the dirtiest part of the car is always lower down.
The “Sheet” rinse: Take the nozzle off the hose. Let a steady, gentle stream of tap water flow over the panels. This “sheeting” effect leaves much less water on the car than a high-pressure spray which will leave droplets on the surface of the paint.
Drying Aids: (A useful process I often use). While the car is wet, spray a product like Chemical Guys After Wash, Gyeon Q2M WetCoat, Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Wax, Dat Wax Hydrophobic Protective Sealant or a quick detailer etc. These products lubricate the surface and help neutralise the minerals, making them much easier to wipe away before they can bond or dry out on your paint.
Use a good quality microfibre cloth: A plush “twisted loop” drying towel is essential like Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth or Slim’s Drying Towel. These towels are designed to pull the moisture and the minerals from the surface of the paint in a single pass rather than dragging them across the surface.
My new setup:
There are multiple ways to soften the water, that will save you time and effort in the long run. There are canister style, an inline tube, wall mounted, dual filters all the way up to the professional pumped options.
Before I show you the setup and use, this is NOT a sponsored post, the product was purchased with my own hard earned money. I have been trying to talk myself into this for a couple of years now. As I now have two black daily driver cars, this turned out to be a quick discussion and I didn’t put up much of an argument with myself after struggling to keep the cars presentable. I did my research and I bought ‘SpotBye’ canister system. Depending on your needs this may not be for you, but from what I have seen, its a great purchase.
These next few steps shows a quick setup guide for the equipment. The FULL setup details and downloadable manuals are in the link here or the link above.
SpotBye is a basically De-ionising Resin vessel. It’s a cylinder that connects inline with your hose. They remove 100% of the minerals.
The setup was quite simple, although the instructions are dire to be honest. After unpacking you need to add a resin into the canister carefully so the resin doesn’t get into the centre tube. The centre tube which passes the treated water out the canister is removable. Open the vacuum packet resin packet (5ltr) and carefully fill the canister, this is the media that filters the water. SpotBye does supply a rubber cap to prevent the resin going into the tube.
Screw the cap on and attach the standard size fittings for your hose.
The supplied water testing tool shows just how bad our water is. The classification level for hard water is anything over 120 ppm (parts per million). From my tap drinking water tap it was 309ppm!!
Attach the garden hose (yellow) to the ‘In’ and another shorter hose to the ‘Out’ fitting (green) for the water spray attachment you want to use. Allow the water to run a couple of minutes to flush the hoses through and get the resin working. The reading after a couple of minutes was astounding, 20ppm in this picture, but even went down to 18ppm. However, it’s noted that the filtration should be 0ppm according to SpotBye. But, an improvement of 96% was good enough for me. The green hose was all I have left which is sometimes use for syphoning a water feature. A new one is on order as I write this up.
I deliberately left my car to get dirty (such is the sacrifice I make for these reviews)! It was bad as there has been some ‘Sahara’ sand which was mixed in with the UK’s famous rain which leaves this nasty mess which looks even worse on my black cars.
Washing the car was a breeze, even on a warm day in direct sunlight and on a hot car, all of which are big no-no’s by the way for cleaning a car. There was copious amounts of suds from the car shampoo which lasted a long time on the car, something I haven’t had before, to this degree anyway.
With the car cleaned it was rinsed of and again deliberately not dried to see what happens if the dreaded water spots showed up. There was some light sheeting marks which dried of wit h a drying towel without any effort.
The pic below left of the door mirror shows what I mean, the rinsing ran of the car instead of sitting on the panel on the right pic.
The image here is dotted to show where I half dried the door in the sun.
Once dried there was no water marks even in this extreme scenario of hot weather, hot panels and in direct sunlight. From the image below in the shadow on the left there is no water marks. The white bits you can see is in fact the paint pearl effect glinting in the sun, you can also see the pink, green, blue, red and yellows of the pearl paint. The phone was having trouble to trying to focus but settled on the reflection of the fence.
With the car dried the car was literally ‘spotless’ as this type of washing technique is referred to. I was also interested to see what it would be like after a quick detailing. Why? Just because I could. The results were even better than when I picked the car up from the showroom.
Here are some close ups of the paint with no water marks, the bottom right is the reflection of the house taken on the hood looking forwards, which is why it looks upside down!
To get a great finish the paint needs to be smooth to give a uniform reflection of light. Having no contaminates on the surface goes a long way to help with the desired reflective gloss. All of this comes at a cost though, to keep the water pure as it can be the resin which decontaminates the water needs to be replaced, around £35 for 5ltr which is what my canister holds. The harder the water the quicker the resin will need to be replaced. The recommended output is 520gallons at 200ppm. The fact that the car wash literally took half the time and was so much easier that cost is worth it to me.
At the end of the day we spend a lot of money on fancy shampoos and waxes to keep our cars looking their best. It seems a bit mad to ruin all that hard work by drenching the car in liquid limestone from the garden hose.
I hope that gives a little insight to the finer points of detailing. Yes its over kill for some, but saving time back for myself and saving physical effort in order to get that good result is worth the small amount of money per car wash. I even save on not having to by products to correct a problem. Buying a few bottles of products to overcome these problems would outweigh the cost of the system I just bought.
Everybody likes a customised wallpaper either on their home desktop PC, Laptop or mobile phone. With that in mind I have selected a few I use and decided to share them with you. I have and added to a new Menu option called “Downloads”, click on the link and you will be taken to a page where I intend to add more as I go along. Let me know what I should add or you would like to see on there.
Once you found what you like, from the Desktop options three so far, or the mobile device options (six so far) click on the ‘Download’ button. They are all free and I haven’t added any watermarks. Lets face it, even if I did, you could remove them with various tools available.
The desktop options are these at the moment, a manor house with a Mustang. Two AI generated scenes, sunset and evening with the cars lights on.
The mobile device options are varied, all high quality photos. They are a large sized images which should allow you to move them around and zoom in and out depending on you device. You could use them as your main screen or maybe just a lock screen.
This a photo of my phone using the first image which is zoomed in to fill the width of the device (Samsung S26 Ultra).
There’s plenty of space at the top to add your favourite apps.
Next month my pride and joy will be backed out the garage for a pre season clean and service. That’s tends to be a full weekend process. Oil change, air filter clean, fluids and tyres and brakes checked. Once all the dirty stuff has been done, I then remove the old wax, apply base sealer, coloured base wax (blue), first layer with a top quality wax which is allowed to cure for twenty four hours. The final top wax allowed to cure for a further two hours then buffed to a shine. Glass polished, seats, carpets and not forgetting the headliner all given an interior detail. The trunk are is emptied out, as more often than not the odd bit of grass creeps in when putting my chair away. Chrome is polished all over the car. After the service, the engine bay is cleaned out and the engine given a degrease and wipe down. While the car is draining the oil and the filter changed, it’s an ideal time to clean the oil pan, gearbox pan which is chrome, and the suspension a clean. I exhausts me just thinking about it, but it’s worth the effort.
With the current state of affairs around the world fuel has gone up stupid amounts here in the UK. So it will be painful to fill up with the premium fuel, my car only seems to like Shell V-Power, anything else and the car runs rough.
But, it’s all about the smiles per gallon, not the miles!
Since I can remember I have a little ritual at the end of the year when i take a few days of from work. I like to make something, no matter how small or big to focus on something completely different. Last year was no different with a little prezzie left on my PC’s keyboard. Thinking it was a voucher of some sort I opened it up to find something unusual, a flat pack of two laser cut sheets of metal to make up a 3D 1965 Mustang.
The kit was no bigger than an A6 sheet and looked interesting. I had never heard of ‘Metal Earth’ before, but after a quick bit of research they make quite a few different kits, something for everybody.
My wife was out for the day so I had some peace and quiet to build my model. I put some music on in the background and settled down for a few hours. I won’t repeat everything that is on the walkthrough page, but just some of the highlights and a couple of low lights I encountered during the build. The photos have some random colour tinges to them, but the model is a shiny polished steel, except where some detailing has been added for effects. The kit recommends some tweezers, needle nosed pliers and wire cutters where I fetched in from the garage some of my Snap On tools. The tweezers needed to be top quality in order to create the bends and folds for the models to join together via the tab and slot process.
The instructions were just diagrams which suits me as I’m a visual/kinaesthetic learner. The parts needed to be clipped away from the sheet, this is where the accurate and clean cutting by my wire cutters was invaluable. Pay close attention to the which are the mounting lugs on the sheet and which is the actual tabs for the fitting of the model. You are shown what to bend and where (the red bits on the diagrams), in order to make the parts fit together.
The hood, roof trunk and sides all needed to be linked together for the main shape, the sides added to hold the upper body all together. The tabs slot into openings and need to be bent over to hold the pieces together.
Some of these parts are insanely small which are then built up to create the 3D image. The two images below are the rear lights
With the upper body complete it was onto the chassis, this is where things got a little frustrating, during the bending process which I was very careful of doing, the fold lines snapped while trying to create the wheel arches. The left image shows the broken away section.
You could superglue the parts together but that would need to be a very accurate positioning. Instead I used a ultraviolet setting glue. I didn’t fully set the part together, just enough to hold the position but moveable. You apply the glue, then shine the ultra violet light which sets the glue hard. Only a partial exposure would be a soft set. When I was sure of the position i completed the full light exposure to give a strong bond.
The interior, seats, centre console, gear stick and steering wheel were added to the floor pan to complete. Again a seat back broke as I was bending it up into position, the other one was fine. Lower left image shows the broken seat.
The Wheels and axles was cleaver, two disk to make the front and back with a band to make the tread.
Fitting the rear axle to the floor pan another breakage that need some gluing, lower left image. The top image is complete repair.
The two halves were ready to be joined. At this point I had a good idea where the bends were supposed to be so I could finish the setting of the glue points.
Fitting together was satisfying as the model took shape, Some fettling to bend and align the parts was needed but nothing much. At this point nothing really aligned correctly, I sorted that out a bit later.
The back of the car need the bumper over riders which were only 1mm when folded.
The Front of the car needed the most amount of fettling to get things to fit, the stone guard, bumper and grill all needed to be aligned and was the trickiest part of the build keeping partially completed parts together while trying to fit to the upper body and floor pan.
Once everything was technically attached and in place, I was using the tweezers to hold the part and the other to make the bends to align up correctly..
The finished article was satisfactory.
The model isn’t the prettiest I have seen, but by nature of the kit it isn’t bad and certainly something different to make. It took about six hours to complete, including the regluing and taking pictures for the guide. The glued parts was on the inside and can’t be seen from the outside, which is good. The overall size is quite small at: 9 x 2.5 x 3.2 cm.
For the cost of £10 it was a fun way to spend some time and forget your troubles for a few hours. Not the greatest of modelling experiences I have had, but a challenge to create from a flat pack to 3D. I’m just glad it wasn’t an Ikea full sized model!
I would like to wish all my readers, followers and casual browsers a very Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. I look forward to bringing you more reviews, memorabilia, walkthroughs and of course lots of car show photos in the coming year.
My little ol’ blog has been evolving into a ‘blogsite’ over the last couple of years with my stats telling me that I’m approaching a truly amazing 1,550,000 views, which I never believed would be possible. I fund this blogsite all by myself with a small contribution from the WordPress adds (sorry) now and then which contributes to the hosting fees, registration and everything else (but doesn’t cover it all) that goes with an online presence. I can only say a huge and sincere “Thank You” to everyone for keeping me encouraged to continue and making this all worth while.
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year, see you all in 2026.
