Billet Throttle Rod Fitting


£60 depending where you buy it from.


A fairly simple upgrade but you need to make sure that it will fit your carbs throttle body. there are various lengths of the rod and choose what you need carefully, although they do have some adjustment.

What’s in the pack?

A single throttle rod with a Holley carb fitting end. With the standard brushed satin finish.


I wanted a better feel for the throttle, the current springs fitted were OK, but they didn’t give much feedback under foot.

The throttle return springs make a huge difference and I have replaced them on another post; ‘Holley Throttle Return Springs Fitting’ click here for that walkthrough guide.

If you are replacing the stock throttle rod with this billet version, you may well need to find an alternative way to return the carb’s throttle body. The stock fitting is seen below so these stock style springs will now have to go.


Remove the old rod from the carb throttle body which was held in place by a lock nut. The two springs on the dog leg part of the old rod simply unhooked.

Remove the other end from the gas pedal. The adjustable end is held in place by a split pin which sits inside the nylon busing.

Lay the two rods next to each other in order to get the length you need to fit back in place.

The rod has a left hand and a right hand threads. So you can either adjust each end to match, or simply fit into place and rotate the rod to adjust both ends at the same time.

You may notice that there are some polished and some satin photos. this is because I wanted to have a polished chrome look and not the brushed satin finish. I spend a few hours sanding down the satin rod and then polished until I got the shiny finish I wanted.

To fit this particular rod which has the Holley cone fitting to match the carb throttle body I need to make sure that the throttle return spring ring fitted correctly.

In an ideal situation you could do with a third hand to do it easily. You need to thread the screw through the rose joint, washer and the conical spring ring in that order.

With the cone in place and the ring under tension to the bracket, you need a larger washer to stop the spring ring coming of the end. I didn’t use the provided lock nut, but I still wanted to lock the bolts in place. Nut number one (arrowed) holds it all together, number two locks the two together.

The reverse view of the throttle return spring ring.

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Fit the other end of the billet rod to the gas pedal through the bushing and use the lock nut.

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Now that it was all was connected up I could test the range of the movement and that nothing was snagging.

I sat in the car to check the height of the pedal I wanted. I was quite low as before, so it needed to be adjusted. This is a simple case of turning the rod which would pull the gas pedal towards the carb for a higher pedal, or towards the firewall for a lower pedal.

Hold the rod in place with a spanner on the flats at either end and tighten the lock nuts to hold the set distance in place, pointed with the arrow.

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That’s it.

With everything in place it should look something like this.

Time Taken:

About half an hour for a straight replacement.

With all the polishing nearly three hours all in.


The pedal feels very positive and direct. The height of the pedal has been raised to my liking now as well.


A pleasing look of chrome along with a direct feel of functionality. A lot of money for a single rod if you don’t need it. As I was changing my throttle return springs this extra part just made sense to me, but a little wanting in the wallet.

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