The pedal is a strange looking design which basically has three legs and a fitting to the firewall. The top of the gas pedal is a rod that is attached to a bar which attached to the side of the carb.
Undo the connection to the top of the gas pedal and the return spring and keep the parts safe. The bottom leg of the gas pedal is for the auto gearbox kick down function; This is either connected by a cable or a rod depending on model etc. In my case I have a cable which is connected to the gearbox selector. Disconnect the cable from the gearbox.
The bracket to the firewall is held in by three bolts and is easy to remove. Although could be a bit tight with the engine in place, with the bolts undone you can turn the pedal over to remove the pedal screw that holds the pedal flat in place.
Remove the bottom of the pedal inside the car along with the spring clip, if it’s still their as many are removed. The bottom of the pedal linkage is the cable and the clip for the adjustment of the kick down. Push the cable down and the clip will release from the cable and then the cable can be disconnected from the lower arm itself. The pedal fitting arms can then be manoeuvred out of the rubber grommet from the fire wall.
Check the rubber grommet at this point. If it’s damaged or perished, replace it while you have everything out of the way. In fact, just replace it anyway for the sake of a couple of ££ or $$.
Degrease the cable and the bracket areas of the pedal. As there was no heavy rust on the pedal anywhere, I treated the slightly rusted surface areas of the arms with Granville Rust Cure all over and allowed it to dry. Once it had dried I then applied a good coat of Eastwoods Under Hood Satin Black.
Refitting:
This is really the exact opposite of removing. When replacing the pedal leg back into the car apply a little rubber grease to the grommet. This will stop it chaffing on the rubber and premature wear. Refit the gas pedal back to the bottom of the leg with the asymmetrical pin and split pin to hold it in place. Spring the pedal to keep it upright is personal choice to fit again or not. I think it just looks better when you are out of the car looking in.
Before fitting the kick down cable (after it has been cleaned) back to the bottom leg of the pedal, grease all the connections and parts. Also apply grease to gear box fitting as well. This is only held in place by a single bolt and can only fit in one direction due to the flat edges of the keyway on the lever of the gearbox. Engine oil leak actually done this linkage good as it was keep free to move.
the kickdown linkage shouldn’t need any adjustment as you in theory, should have moved anything. But making the kickdown activate earlier of later is controlled by the threaded part of the linkage.
Safety:
The top of the throttle arm connects to the rod to the carb, depending on your setup of course. Check the bush is well greased and moving freely. Check the spring is correct. If there is only one spring in place as was normal at the time it left the factory; replace the spring with the double spring option.
This is a safety feature that will return the pedal to idle if one of the springs break. Imagine if the throttle stuck wide open!!!
A link for a out of the box option click here.
My setup allows for the Stock look with the extra safety factor. I made this setup myself with the bracket and making the spring hooks to fall in the correct place to fit without snagging.