Front Valance Work (Part 2)


Front Valance Work & Grill Valance work (Part 2)

 Background:

Obviously this is part two of the work, part 1 the strip down can be seen under the body work section, or here for the quick link.

28th April 2013

I’m sure I don’t really need to write this but hey, it’s part of what I do now. OK, the outside and the paint side I have not touched yet and don’t intend to just yet. I want to get the inside sorted out so if i over spill the underside i can make amends on the proper side. At this point I have not done any work on the grill valance yet. But I will update here, and there will be plenty more pics and add the dates when I do.

Process:

Valance:

Dead simple here, I used the POR15 Marine clean to get rid of any sticky or oil parts to the underside. Then its a case of the Prep & Ready treatment, this is sprayed on left for 15 – 30 mins depending on the rust. There was hardly any rust so I gave it a good 30mins to make sure. The only thing is you have to make sure it stays wet. After the time was up, and all the spraying leaves a little pool in the bottom. What I do then is to pour that out into a little tub as it’s slightly discoloured now. The tub is then used for nuts and bolts treatment. I just chuck the bits in there, shack it around a few times now and then and it’s another job done for those parts. Once the treatment has been completed you have to remove the spray by using lots of water. This sort of goes against the grain, but I do as it says. Dry thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly. The water is an activator for the POR paint.  Pour a little of the paint into a pot, I use old and cleaned out desert pots as they will be thrown away anyway at some point. I use a soft bristled brush and paint on. I don’t over do the paint as it will tend to look orange peel like and leave tiny little crater marks. If you look carefully you can see a few on the pictures. As this is the first coat of two, (POR recommends two or three coats depending on the exposure to the nasty elements), I was not too worried about it. I will make sure the next coat will cover all of that up. They (being POR) say a second coat can be added after two to six hours later when the paint is tacky and a slight drag on the finger. I will leave this today as I have run out of time today. I expect I may apply the second coat during the week.

28th April 2013

I will add the pictures of the filler, sanding and spraying as I go along.

Results: 

I will leave this open for comment at a later date once I have either

a) completed the inside parts

or

b) completed the top side ready for paint.

Update 15/11/2013

I have added the second coat to the inside of the valance and I have repaired the damaged bolt hole with a large washer held in place with POR15 Patch.

Update 2nd June 2013

I have got to work on the front valances, I have applied the first Dinitrol filler and rubbed it down. The Second filler was added and rubbed down, this has now started to make surfaces a little more level. The third application of filler has now got most of the surfaces even, but I expect a fourth application and fine rub down should do the trick ready for an under coat.

Each application was rubbed down using the 180grit sander using the Dewalt. After the initial sanding the filler was mixed again and applied and left to set for an hour each time, which is twice as long as the requirement. The sunshine made it a bit of a nightmare to spread as the mix went of so quick on the heat.

The grill valance has had exactly the same treatment of three applications of the filler.

Update: 7th July 2013

Today was all about rubbing the filler down (Dinitrol 2030) and spraying on the primer. The filler sanded to a lovely smooth finish and I realy do like this filler. The spray was first done with Rust Encapsulator by Eastwood on the bare metal on the insides of the lamp cut outs and a little over lap just to be sure. The Grey primer was U-Pol high pressure can.

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