I would like to wish all my readers, followers and casual browsers a very Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. I look forward to bringing you more reviews, memorabilia, walkthroughs and of course lots of car show photos in the coming year.
My little ol’ blog has been evolving into a ‘blogsite’ over the last couple of years with my stats telling me that I’m approaching a truly amazing 1,550,000 views, which I never believed would be possible. I fund this blogsite all by myself with a small contribution from the WordPress adds (sorry) now and then which contributes to the hosting fees, registration and everything else (but doesn’t cover it all) that goes with an online presence. I can only say a huge and sincere “Thank You” to everyone for keeping me encouraged to continue and making this all worth while.
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year, see you all in 2026.
After some twelve plus years I now have an issue with my most trusted TomTom Go 600, the battery has died. You may be asking why am I bothered as Google Maps is available phones, updated regularly and works, some consider it better than many dedicated SatNavs, TomTom or Garmin to name just a couple. Even my daily driver has an up-to-date SatNav which I use, a lot. This TomTom Go 600 is used in my Mustang and sits on the centre console in a weighted mount setup. I need guidance to virtually any location where I can’t see my own house. I honestly get lost anywhere, even somewhere that I’ve been before, often a standing joke with friends and family. I prefer to use the TomTom instead of the phone with google maps and the smart watch on my wrist for turn by turn notifications which is great, but the phones battery gets drained before I even get to the location. At car shows most of the phones battery is used up with the camera usage and then a little bit of reading while sitting in my chair. I often take a backup charger with me just in case I need to charge the phone, but it’s a pain. It’s often easier to plonk the SatNav on the console, plug it in so there is no battery worry on the phone. Besides, the screen is bigger on the TomTom and the sound is louder for directions.
On this device the battery lasts about one hour when not plugged in, or I can’t be bothered to plug into the cigarette lighter for the shorter trips. The battery no longer holds a charge of any sort, often to the point that even with power from the cigarette lighter, it can’t hold the power so the unit has shut off on me a few of times. Without external power, the device hardly has enough power to show the empty battery symbol and just dies, not even a proper shut down.
After a quick bit of research I found video on YouTube as a tutorial on how to change the battery, it was worth a go. Why go to the bother, just get an up-to-date model? I certainly could upgrade, however this model has free map updates for life! After twelve years, every few months I get a map update. This device owes me nothing, so a replacement battery and some cheap tools from Amazon £20 all in, would be worth a go. The battery arrived the next day along with the tools needed to take these sort of devices apart. I also needed a pen knife, a blunt one which is sometimes used to open packages etc.
Disclaimer: If you attempt this repair, it’s of your own choice and I won’t be held responsible for any damage or loss.
My experience of the practical wasn’t so easy as the video suggested, so I thought I would document what I did to fix it. I don’t know if the models are designed differently after a while, but my internals were a little different to the YouTube video even though it was the same model designation.
The first step was to separate the two halves of the device, this is where the plastic tools came in, well to start with anyway.
The two parts we so well together I had to get the penknife to get between the two halves and lever them apart. As I worked my way round I used triangular picks in various place to stop the device snapping back together again. There are no screws that hold the two halves together. As the device separated I heard a couple of little snaps where the plastic catches has snapped below right. I was not brutal in fact rather careful, perhaps the plastic is getting brittle with age. The face has a little piece of tape which holds the screen ribbon in place just before the connector itself to the main motherboard.
With the screen out of the way the plastic flat ribbon needs to be eased out of the connector by moving the white clamp towards the ribbon which will release the pressure on the clamp and allow the cable to be pulled out.
The two halves are now fully separated, put the screen to one side out of harms way. The below image shows one of the additional sprung connections at the tip of the screw driver. These are delicate and transfer the touch inputs of the screen to the main board. Hence the flat metal plate that is on the back of the screen.
Next we need to disconnect the speaker and the battery connections, using the plastic tools separate the two plugs.
Get yourself a nice set of screw drivers to remove the five flat cross head screws holding the circuit board to the back case.
With the screws removed lift the top of the board, the opposite to the connections at the bottom. With the board elevated you can then slide the bottom half of the board out of the case. With the board also put out of harms way the battery is exposed at the bottom. The battery will need to be prized away from the case as it’s stuck in place with double sided tape. As with all Li-ion batteries be very very careful.
The old battery and the new one side by side. The new battery on the left has a slightly higher capacity which should retain a little longer life. the original battery is on the right.
In the box supplied with my battery was fresh double sided tape, which needs to stuck on the back to hold the battery in place. The new battery is slightly smaller but still sits neatly in the area. Make sure that the wires are near the speaker and not the opposite end or they wont be long enough to connect.
Take the circuit board and align the bottom of the board to openings. Gently lay the fish the two sets of wires through the hole in the circuit board and then lower the board down into place. Align the screw holes and lightly screw into place. This will allow you to pick the device up and make sure the connections are fully located correctly. Once you are happy with the alignment fully tighten the five screws, do not over tighten. Next re-insert the battery and the speaker cables to the back of the board.
Hold the screen near the main circuit board that will allow the flat cable to fall above the ribbon connection. I couldn’t take pictures at this point as I needed both hands. While holding the screen still gently guide the flat ribbon into the opening evenly. Do not force the ribbon or it will kink, the ribbon should just slot into place. Once the ribbon is fully inserted in place, slide the white clamp away from the ribbon to clamp the ribbon in place. Both the screen and the ribbon should now be connected. Very lightly pull the screen to make sure the ribbon does not pull out.
Lay the screen onto the case to align the two halves again. Make sure that the sprung connectors are not damaged be fully lowering the screen down. Starting at the bottom snap into place and work up the sides to the top. As you snap the case together make sure the connections at the bottom are stay correctly aligned. The broken clips were at opposite ends of the device so it didn’t prevent re-assembly of the unit.
Now turn the device on.
Now check that the screen is still touch responsive once the unit has fully started.
Once everything was working I was able to give everything a clean and full charge. The difficult part was separating the two halves without damage. The YouTube video showed it almost falling apart which wasn’t the case. The plastic tools weren’t quite man enough to separate the halves, hence the use of the pen knife for a little more robust leverage. Once apart it was pretty simple to remove the board, replace the battery and re-assemble.
Total time taken: 40 mins
Difficulty Level: 4 out 10
Conclusion: the only real difficulty was taking apart without damage and re-aligning the motherboard ports to the bottom of the case.
Last weekend was due to be my first car meet, my good mate Craig sent me a link earlier in the week which was for a show just thirteen or so miles away from me in Lavenham across country. The car was pushed out the garage on the Saturday to de-winterise the car and give it a bit of a clean up. I also did a oil and filter change change with some Millers 20W 50 Semi synthetic oil. I also had a new detailing product I wanted to try and mini project that had waited for the right time to get the car out in the nice weather.
The mini project was a real quick one to replace the headlight retaining rings around the headlights as I detected a little rattle at the end of last year’s shows and found it was from the drivers headlight. I knew exactly what it was, but wasn’t to worried about it at this point. I had made a trip over the winter to get a pair of headlight retaining rings from Mustang Maniac to make sure they matched, I couldn’t have one shiny and one not as shiny could I?
The headlight retaining rings were pretty simple to swap over and I have done a full walkthrough of the process here.
Basically the headlight door comes of after loosening four screws.
The exposed headlight retaining rings are held in place by three screws.
Loosen the three screws and twist the ring counter clockwise a little to release the ring and the headlight itself becomes free.
You can replace the headlight at this point as well for an LED upgrade, like I did here. Or just replace the the rings which was my intention this time. On the left picture below you can tell the difference between the new one at the top of the left hand pic and the old one below it.
While I was at it replacing shiny things I got my mini polisher out and decided to clean the headlight door screws, just because I could.
Will anybody notice, I very much doubt it, but I know they are shiny. Happy with the days quick bit of work I was ready for the car meet the next day.
Sunday morning arrived and where I checked the weather which was sunny, today was going to be great. I started the car and rolled out the garage with over an hour before the start. I realised that I had more fuel than I remembered, just over a quarter of a tank, which would be more than enough to get to the show and back again about twelve miles each way in fact. I could fill up on the way home in my own leisurely time. The usual turn off for me is more of a main road route than the back roads, which can be dirty and you often get idiots in the middle of the roads going much to fast. As I turned into the road barriers stopped me with the dreaded “Road Closed” sign. Somebody was being paid to stand there and watch all the cars turning around. He eventually wondered over to me as I wasn’t turning round, it was obviously too much for him to walk over. We had a very brief exchange of words where I tried to bluff my way through. Unfortunately he was having none of it and walked away mid way through his sentence mumbling under his breath. Now I’m in a bad mood as it meant that I was going to have to reverse back up because I didn’t want to do a ten point turn in the car. The down side was me about to reverse onto a fairly busy roundabout. I think he said ‘follow the diversion signs’ in some sort of half strung together sentence, which would ‘only be a few miles or so’. The irony was the ‘Road Works’ which wasn’t happening with him or the other half a dozen who were also standing around and certainly not working on the road. They could have let me through, but no – Mr. Jobsworth was on the case.
The signs sent me back round to the far side of the town along the way my SatNav was having a mental, with “turn around where possible”. I turned my trusty navigation co-pilot off in order to concentrate on following the road diversion signs, or should I say more like a ‘wild goose chase’? Twenty minutes later I’m still following signs to who knows where. I started to realise something was wrong when I glanced a sign giving directions to Cambridge which was the exact opposite direction I needed to be going. Now I’m literally in the middle of nowhere with no phone signal. I started to sweat as my fuel gauge was running down. I may have mentioned in a few post before, the air was turning blue just like my car and the sky above me. It would be a glorious day to be at a car meet, if I could get there. But no, the diversion muppets who put the signs up were having a laugh at my expense or they got lost themselves.
I reckoned that I had a couple of gallons left and decided to abort the trip as I’m now in a previously undetected black hole that exists in darkest depth of Suffolk. I eventually found some signal and called my mate Craig to say I was lost. He said he would do a fuel run for me if needed, which was very kind of him, if I knew where I was of course to get the fuel in the first place. I opened my Shell app which showed me the location of petrol stations near me. My usual, regular Shell fuel station in Bury St Edmunds was shown to be ‘only’ 15 miles away. My featherweight foot was just resting on the gas pedal and some twenty minutes later I pulled into the gas station. The fuel gauge before on the left, then almost £70 later I was full up again.
I reckon that I had another gallon or so in the tank, but you can’t trust these old gauges. I certainly don’t and tend to fill up when near the 1/4 tank mark which is my ’empty’ guide during the car show season.
The drive home was relaxed, but feeling disappointed. I stopped at a junction to turn right, when pulling away out of nowhere a rather annoying screech on quick throttle. One of belts for the fan/alternator or the power steering belt was slipping. Pulling up back on my drive the belt screech was becoming more pronounced. My day was now getting worse by the minute, I popped the hood, but couldn’t tell which belt it was. The first belt to come of was the power steering and then re-started the car, screech was still there. I then removed the alternator belt and started the car, the screech was gone. Laying the belt on the floor it looked more like an egg where it had sat around the pullies and had stretched over the winter just enough to cause the issue. I cleaned the belt and the pulley V grooves with degreaser, along with a fair amount of isopropanol alcohol to dry the grooves and belt, once cleaned it was refitted back on. The screech had almost gone, only happened on sudden revs, but still there a little. The tension couldn’t be adjusted anymore as the alternator was now on the max adjustment on the bracket. I spoke to Adam at Mustang Maniac who told me that he would send the direct replacement belt and another one which was 1/2″ shorter belt to give me more adjustment on the bracket.
I put the car away after a clean and went inside the house decided to relay my dissatisfaction of the day so far to my ever understanding wife. I plonked myself on the sofa with the hump and felling very sorry for myself.
About an hour or so later Craig pulled up and asked if everything was OK. I had even forgotten to let him know that I had filled up and gotten home safely. Sorry again Craig.
We decided to have a couple of hours of detailing tyres and comparing products, all of which I will be reviewing. The first was the Meguiar’s Ultimate Insane Tire Spray, the full review can be found here. The product we used on the daily car was CarPro DarkSide Tyre And Rubber Sealant, the full review can be found here. Craig loaned me his new product that he had recently bought and liked. He asked me if I wanted to try it on my cars. So we opened a can of chilled soda each, sitting in the warm sun we took some pictures so that I could review the product, which is a nice change as I tend to do them on my own.
Once the tyres were cleaned we tried the CarPro product on the Smart car.
I was very pleased with the results and I will buying some of this product when I get round to ordering it. Time started run away with us as we cleared up and Craig made a move to go back home. It was a good day in the end, catching up with a mate, shame it wasn’t at a car meet itself. That means my first show was a DNF is normally defined as ‘Did Not Finish’, but in my case ‘Did Not Find’ it, so near yet so far.
Hopefully the next proper show is this weekend at Kersey Mill, but the weather forecast doesn’t look that good, maybe I could be forced to miss that one as well.
Many classic cars of the bygone era of the ’60s & ’70s, not just Mustangs were fitted with a fuel filler pipe that was quite big diameter. The fuel back then was Leaded or Four Star fuels to be pumped through a larger nozzle which filled more of the filler pipe, which makes perfect sense. When pumping was complete, the pump would click off and it was job done. However, with the move to the dreaded ethanol based fuels the filler pipe holes were made smaller along with the pump heads themselves. Fuel pumps from today have the much smaller hole which ensure a snug fit and allow the pump to shut off as you would expect. The problem with classic cars owners now have since this change is that the the large diameter filler pipes still take the smaller pumps which fill at similar rates, but at higher pressure. In turn that when the filling is complete, the fuel should stop the nozzle to avoid over filling, but it more often than not doesn’t. The reason is that pumped gas under pressure can splash back around the smaller nozzles, down sides of the filler pipes and out the top. This invariably results with some splash back out of the filler pipe over the paint job, bumper and if I’m unlucky, me if I happened to be standing in the wrong place. With this in mind I tend to go through some performance of getting a microfibre cloth, laying it over the bumper ready to clean up quickly when I top the tank up. I sometimes get strange looks as to what I’m doing before filling up.
This waste of fuel, smell on your clothes and potential damage to the paint work over time has always been an annoyance to me, but it’s part of the ‘joys’ of owning a classic car. I know many other Mustang owners as well as other manufacturers in fact that suffer from this issue. I just happened to be browsing through a Mustang forum where I spotted a link where somebody had modified the 64 – 70 Mustang filler pipes, a totally random link lead me to a discussion. The filler pipe size was exactly the same as the original, but inside is a simple fitted anti splashback valve. The valve is designed for the unleaded fuel pump nozzles sizes of today 13/16″ and should stop the splashback problem.
After a bit more research I got in touch with the guy and ordered one. A couple of weeks later it arrived and got round to fitting it as the sun came out over the weekend. Below shows the inside of the filler pipe with the anti splash back valve.
I have created a full step by step fitting guide for the filler neck here, but I have shown the basics steps of fitting it below.
This is an exact replacement for the standard filler pipe. The only minor difference is the bottom of the filler pipe has a slightly ribbed bottom which should aid in sealing of the hose to the pipe.
The only difference as i mentioned is the internal fuel valve. The definition of fuel ‘valve’ is a piece of sprung metal behind the reduced filler neck size opening. There are a couple of breather holes as well, two at the top and one where the bottom of the flap finishes almost at the bottom of the filler opening. The inner valve is held in place with a few dimples and a bit of JB Weld.
Roll the trunk mat out of the way to expose the top of the fuel tank. I have a a sound deadening mat on top of my polished tank which is semi stuck down. Remove the fuel cap, if you have the security version like mine there is a threaded bolt that goes through the filler panel and held in place by a nylon nut. Undo the nut and remove the security wire and the cap.
There will be four bolts around the outside of the flange which will need to be removed.
Inside the trunk there is a rubber hose clamped in place by two wire fittings. It’s easier to undo both the top and bottom clamps. Either the fuel pipe needs to come out of the rubber hose. Or pull the rubber hose up of the neck of the fuel tank itself. Either way is fine, you just need to remove the pipe from the hose.
In my case the hose came off the tank first. With the fuel pipe now free, remove the hose from the pipe otherwise the filler will not go through the panel as the opening is fairly snug.
Fully remove the pipe along with the cork gasket from the rear panel. Be careful not to let anything full into the open top of the fuel tank, I placed my fuel cap over the opening to prevent anything falling in it.
With the pipe removed I cleaned and applied a long lasting wax to the paint before i added the cork gaskets back on. You only need one gasket, but I like two, as it helps with the alignment of the filler pipe and also gives a little more protection of metal filler pipe flange to the paint.
Add the gasket(s) on the pipe before before feeding the pipe through the rear panel.
With the pipe through the panel it’s easier to fit the hose to the pipe by turning it ninety degrees. Then turn the pipe back round to the correct position and then you can simply press down the hose to the fuel tank opening neck.
With the hose now in place we can add the screws to hold the pipe’s flange to the panel. I started by adding the anti theft bolt through the gaskets and the panel. Add the washer to the front side of the flange, then the second washer inside and finally the nylon lock nut on the inside. Don’t tighten anything up just yet.
Next arrange the clamps how they should be on the rubber hose. When I first fitted the filler pipe and the hose I had the clamps on the inside of the trunk, this mean that things like cloths would catch the bolts. See below right hand photo. I never changed their position until now. The clamps should be between filler pipe and the rear panel so they are out of the way. Left and middle photos below. Lightly tighten the clamps just to hold them in place for now.
Align the gasket(s) up to the holes and add the rest of the screws to the flange and gently tighten up to allow for final adjustments.
With the screws in place start to tighten them up and the bolt for the security wire. Ensure the security wire is aligned with the outer part of the flange, or you won’t be able to fit the cap back back on. Tightening of the bolts or screws will pull the pipe into position on the panel. Now go back to the hose clamps and fully tighten them both up as the rubber will take the difference of alignment up. Recheck all bolts are tight.
The filler pipe was a like for like swap, but now I have little more bling under the trunk with the nickel plating looking great.
From the outside there is no difference to see. But, on the inside there is something (in theory) to stop me getting my regular splashback on fill up. Once I have taken the car for the next fill up I will give the results if the splashback is cured with this little project. It can’t be any worse no matter what happens.
I’m now intrigued to know if any other classic car owners have the same problem, or have hacks that they can share with us.
For quite a while I have been thinking to myself, wouldn’t it be good to have a nice reference guide for collectible Mustang memorabilia or for the rarer items from the past. I even thought to myself perhaps I should start looking into it and undertake the monumental task of trying to collate one. I perched myself in a comfy chair and started to look around the internet. Then up popped a book up on one of my searches which was published over twenty years earlier, already covering what I had in mind. I was gutted, but at the same time relieved. The book was authored by Bill Coulter and called Mustang Collectibles which looked to cover more or less what I had in mind. My search on eBay found it for a ridiculous price three times the price of the original publication. I tried to find a new copy, but couldn’t, in the end I settled for a second hand copy found in a USA book store, all for the reasonable and almost original published price of $25 plus shipping of course to the UK.
I reviewed the book here which I thought I should share on my Blogsite. The only downside is that it’s now well out of date by a couple of decades, but that didn’t effect my review score which is based on the time it would have been published. There are over 200 items covered, but it does miss things like third party manufacturers like Avon aftershave bottles way back in the day. Things that are now highly collectible are items related to the 1964 World Trade Fair for the Mustang launch. Throw away items such as entry tickets, leaflets, magazines, sales brochures (I’m still looking for an original 1964 version), original owners manuals, or even the boxes for the items that they came in originally can command strong money. Autographs are obviously are still highly desirable now days, sadly for people today they take selfies instead. It’s not quite the same as somebody taking their time out to sign something for you. I do own verified autographs from Carrol Shelby and Lee Iacocca which are some of my more prized possessions. (All these pics below are from my own collection.)
If anybody knows of another resource which is more up to date, then please do let me know. Realistically I don’t think I could have created the book, as I’m not in the USA and there is just so much memorabilia out there, I wouldn’t know where to start or have the time, maybe it’s a job for retirement. I’m also pretty sure that the people who would know about all these things will have moved up to the great car lot or sales offices in the sky.
During the winter I spend time looking for little upgrades, this year is no different. When I or any of these classic cars, not just Mustangs with large filler necks fill up, the fuel pump doesn’t shut of in time when full and more often than not the car gives a gulp of fuel splosh back out the filler pipe. I did get wise to this fairly common issue pretty quickly though. Now whenever I fill up I always put a cloth over the rear bumper ready to catch any spillage and ready to mop it up, especially off the paint job. While I was looking through some Mustang forums I found a random thread talking about an anti splashback modification which fits within the original filler neck. After checking it was all legit, I ordered one and it came a week or so later, in fact the same day as the collectible book I talk about above.
I will be doing a review and a fitting guide for this mod part soon, only when the weather is nicer of course. It should be a simple fitting but really effective upgrade. It’s an out of sight mod that could make a big difference to my Mustang driving experience, mainly because I now won’t stink of Shell V-Power petrol after a fill up!
Over the winter there isn’t much to update on my blogsite, there are no car shows, the Mustang is winterised and sits the garage all tucked up ready for the spring. Although I do have a little project to do before the next car show, which I will post soon. I like to keep an eye on the detailing world and follow a number of forums on Instagram, WordPress and YouTube to see what the latest developments are. Regular followers will know that I review a lot of detailing products which are all purchased with my own money and not influenced by being sponsored or freebies. I’m not a fanboy of any one product, I mix and match products to get the best results I want from the multitude of manufacturers. My reviews are from an independent point of view where I write the reviews how I would like to read them, rating, ease of use and big question – would I buy them again? Here is the menu I use to review many various products. Clicking on each section will open a page to the products and clicking on the image will take you to that review. There have been a few conversations with the WordPress support to try and sort it out. Apparently I have to do it this way, as my blog ‘Theme’ won’t allow massive menus sadly. On the other hand, it does force me to keep things neat and tidy.
Towards the end of last year and the beginning of this year there has been a bit of a push on Social Media from a company called Hydro with their new V2 Spray Bottles and bundled products. I decided to join in the hype and buy the ‘Full Spray Bundle’ which consists of two bottles and two products at a special new years sale bargain price of £55 instead of the usual £79. That’s still a lot of money for something I hadn’t used or a company I hadn’t heard of before.
I ordered the bundle in the first week of January and they arrived promptly a few days later and nicely packaged. With the bad weather I hadn’t had a chance to use them until today. Although it was cold, I braved the chill. I found out that my trainer had developed a leak it which allowed the cold water to seep in and slowly freeze my toes, one at a time as the leather got progressively soaked. I sucked it up and got on with cleaning our cars as I wouldn’t be long. By the time I had finished and came in for a hard earned rest before writing this, I could have sworn I was on the way to getting trench foot!
Anyway, the cars needed a clean a few weeks ago, but I waited for them to get proper grubby, before trying my nice new bottles and products out on a real life scenario.
The Hydro videos showed us that using ‘Pre’ and then going over the top with ‘Snow’ while using their V2 Spray Bottles is a game changer, obviously I was excited. Well, excited as car detailers get.
The bottles are two litres each with interchangeable nozzles for a spray (Snow) or a more direct application (Pre) if you wanted to use the same bottle of only had one. I set mine up one for each of the products, the red nozzles for snow foam and the silver for the pre wash.
The pre wash started fine and the spray was good on both cars. The ‘Pre’ is to soften the worst and lift the dirt. Similar to other Citrus pre wash products.
It was left to dwell for a few minutes, which was just enough time to mix up the dilution ratio for the ‘Snow’ foam in the other bottle which is used to drag the dirt down off of the paint. I pumped up the bottle along with my expectations at the same time.
By the time I walked to the car and pressed the trigger there was nothing. OK, so I hadn’t tightened up the seals properly. I checked and they were all good, I pumped up again to pressure and started spraying. Below left was the start of the spray, and on the right literally a second or so later of spraying, a damp dribble.
I had to pump again and this time I could hear a hissing from the trigger, the bottle is faulty. I could have decanted the product and used the other bottle, but I couldn’t be bothered as my right foot was getting cold and I wanted to get this over and done with as quick as possible. After all, a couple of sprays and jet wash then I could get back in the warm.
To get around the dribbling nozzle, I was walking around the car holding the trigger down to get a reasonable spray, while the other hand was going rapid on the plunger to keep up some sort of pressure. From a distance looking a some bloke’s arm pumping up and down while walking around a car could have looked very odd. Luckily there was only one lady walking her dog spotted me with a jolly ‘Morning’, I turned round to reciprocate the greeting, making sure that I showed my actions were pumping the top of a pressure bottle and nothing else.
I left the snow foam applications on each car to dwell for a few minutes again while I got the jet wash ready. On the Hydro sales video, a jet washing after the Pre and Snow products left the car sparkly clean, he even swiped the paint with his finger which showed no dirt. I jetted my cars to remove every last little bit of debris just like in the videos. Yep, while wet, all looked good.
I had seen a good tip on another video, somebody get a cotton wool pad and gently wiped the surface of their car to see how clean it was. I did the same with both cars too, this wasn’t looking good.
When I allowed the cars to dry out there wasn’t much difference, but there was some improvement.
The cotton pads tell the story that I was now going to have to wash the cars properly with a couple of buckets and some of my lovely PH neutral car bubble bath. My hands were now cold, my trench foot was properly numb and the air was turning blue as my hands turned from a rosy pink to a pale and slightly blue tone of colour. After the washing and drying was completed, I tidied up put everything away. I was cold, I now had the hump that I had spent my money on some products that didn’t live up to the hype. I came inside changed out of my damp clothes and started to research some more. The instructions on the product said 4:1 for the Pre and 6:1 for the Snow on the bottles, I had followed the instructions carefully. However, different write ups and reviews say different amounts of dilutions. Perhaps I need to reduce the dilution to a stronger mix and try again another day to give the product the benefit of the doubt on a nicer day. My day wasn’t good as a supposedly fifteen minute car wash turned into a couple of hours. On top of that, I now had a spray bottle that was faulty and not even good enough to spray indoor plants. I have emailed the company to see what they have to say, which is the first time I have ever complained to a company about their detailing products.
I have written a full review of the Hydro V2 Spray Bottle here and I will review their pre contact wash products properly shortly.
So my point is; in a moment of weakness, I fell for the Hydro hype and regretted it. Perhaps the products are better in my jet wash bottles, I shall give it a go. I’m normally quite sceptical over these super products that make claims to be the next best thing on the market. Hopefully my open wallet surgery for the bottles will make you think twice and research more before leaping into the unknown, as the the old saying goes; ‘if it’s to good to be true, it probably is’!
There has always been a little bit of niggle with my car but never really an issue, but nice to sort out. The issue was that my car has always needed a few cranks to turn over before it fires up after standing for a while (weeks). I have spoken to the guys at Mustang Maniac who suggested a non return valve to stop the fuel draining away could be a quick fix. The long term would be a fuel pump and return line, a little bit of overkill what I was describing as an issue. They don’t actively sell the valves, but they gave me one of theirs that they sometimes fit for certain cars with my ‘issue’. This particular design is subtle and and not a big hulking beast in the middle of a fuel line which can look rather cumbersome and out of place. In fact the outside of the valve is just about the same size as the outside diameter of the fuel pipe. I now had a mini project to complete and was looking forward to this one, even though it was fuel related.
While I was at it fitting the valve I decided to clean out the inline fuel filter which was looking a bit grubby after sitting in the garage over the winter months. Where the hard line fuel pipe comes through the inner fender apron there is a rubber pipe that goes to the inlet of the mechanical fuel pump. My fuel filter sits on that line. Most filters are plastic, or more factory correct would be the large metal cylinder design. Mine is a glass (quite thick) and unscrews at each end to allow easy access for removing the filter itself.
I removed the jubilee clips at each end and removed the whole fuel line, to be safe I also capped of the hard fuel line as it comes through the inner apron (circled below right).
Important: When removing the fuel line, if you suspected that there is fuel in the pipe, be well prepared to catch it and temporarily block it off. You don’t want a gravity spewing the fuel all over the floor leaving you in a dangerous situation.
With the complete length removed, the old clips on the pipe and fuel filter were removed in order to start the cleaning and refit. The old pipe had lemon clips holding the filter in place and needed to be cut off. These clips would be replaced with new reusable low profile clips.
I had also gotten a new length of E10 fuel resistant hose, just for the sake of replacing it with a fresh piece of pipe. I only ever used E10 fuel once very early on in by restoration, and I won’t ever use it again. The reason was that the E10 fuel caused me issues, 1) the car ran like an asthmatic 7 cylinder with very rough running and idle, 2) it’s nasty and has a devastating toll for all the fuel components which the devils blood itself comes into contact with, nothing is spared; plastic, rubber or metal.
Fuel filters are of a single flow direction, make sure you get it right when fitting back to the car.
With the filter in bits I cleaned the filter itself with 99% isopropanol alcohol. The filter wasn’t that dirty to be fair, but there was a fuel particles which were removed with a small soft nylon brush. Once the filter was cleaned it dried very quickly and was ready for reassembly and fitting.
The glass case and end fittings were also cleaned with an isopropanol soaked non lint cloth. I also took the time to polish the metal end fittings as they clean up nicely. (Notice the big bold ‘IN’ and ‘OUT’ on each end.)
The total length of the original fuel line was measured, (the rubber either side of the filter, to the fuel pump and the apron). I made a the calculations to incorporate the non return valve, there now needed to be three lengths cut to the correct lengths instead of the two previous lengths. (Fuel pump to filter, filter to valve, valve to apron hard line.)
The picture here below, shows the filter ‘IN’ (notice the ‘N’ is back to front), and the direction flow of the non-return valve. This flow direction is critical to get the fuel filtered correctly and allow the fuel to flow to the carb.
The hose fasteners are of a new design being trialled from Mustang Maniac which are simply clipped into place. The clips just slip over the pipe and are pinched closed over a raised retaining ridge in the centre. Once they have been pinched closed enough the clip will just click and lock into place. To remove the clips you can use an awl or small screw driver to lever the clip back up from under the larger of the two raised ridges. The fastener will then just spring open again allowing removal.
You will need a very good pair of pliers to hold and grip the clip in order to close it enough without slipping. These fittings are a very, very tight fitting. They look the part, but I’m not sure I would use them again in a confined space. They are fine for connecting fittings like this fuel line when you have plenty of space to work and accessibility. Cut the lengths of hose allowing enough flexibility between each of the component parts.
I started measuring from the fuel pump and worked backwards towards the apron. The non return valve should be placed before the fuel filter, this would keep a reservoir of fuel within the filter.
The completed fuel line is completed. For each end of the new fuel line configuration I will used standard jubilee clips. This then allows for an easier fitting with a screw driver and easier access. More importantly it will allow me to loosen the the complete line without disturbing the clips. Once the line is loosened at each end I will be able to unscrew the filter and clean with the rest of the fuel line configuration in place.
With the new fuel line configuration in place it looks neat and now serves a dual purpose for filtering and non return.
The fuel flows and retains the fuel up to the carb allowing easier starting. The actual design of the non return valve is slightly irrelevant, but its functionality is the important thing. This slimline design is subtle and neat and doesn’t look to out of place for a stock looking engine bay. The whole thing took around an hour or so to complete. The hardest part was to cut the lemon clips off with damaging the fuel filter. The upgrade has been in place for a couple of months now and it has made a significant difference to the starting of the car in scenarios both cold and hot. This was well worth the effort in my opinion. However, with my naturally suspicious nature it determines that I always carry a spare length of new E10 fuel line just in case of emergencies, or maybe if the valve decides to play up. That way it’s a very simple quick and easy temporary fix for a replacement on the roadside if you need to, then sort it out properly when you get home.
I’m really pleased with the look of the part and the improved functionality that I now have.
Do you ever worry about the safety of your classic cars? With car thefts on the rise, if not for the car then for the hard to get parts. Either way it’s more important than ever to take precautions to protect your vehicle. In this article, we will discuss the use of GPS trackers for car security, a modern solution to this growing problem. Through innovative technology and real-time tracking, you can have peace of mind knowing your classic car is safe and secure.
Using GPS trackers is a wise decision to protect your vehicle from theft. These devices use satellite technology to track the location of your car in real time. They can be discreetly installed and provide peace of mind knowing that you can monitor your car’s whereabouts at all times.
A pro tip for GPS tracker users is to choose a device with geofencing capabilities. This feature allows you to set virtual boundaries for your car, and if it crosses those boundaries, you will receive an immediate alert. This can help prevent unauthorized usage or theft of your vehicle. Stay one step ahead with GPS trackers for car security.
How GPS Trackers Can Improve Car Security
GPS trackers offer a variety of benefits for enhancing car security. To make the most of your GPS tracker, follow these steps:
Activate the tracker and ensure it is properly connected to a tracking service.
Monitor your vehicle’s location and receive real-time updates through a mobile app or web interface.
Set up geofencing alerts to receive notifications if your vehicle enters or exits specific areas.
Take advantage of additional features such as remote engine immobilization to prevent unauthorized use.
In addition to these steps, here are some suggestions to maximize car security:
Regularly check the tracker’s battery life and ensure it is functioning correctly.
Notify law enforcement immediately if your vehicle is stolen and provide them with the GPS tracking information.
Consider adding additional security measures like steering wheel locks or alarm systems.
Inform your insurance provider about the GPS tracker, as it may result in lower premiums.
Types of GPS Trackers for Cars
There are various types of GPS trackers available for cars, each with its unique features and benefits. Here is a table outlining some of the most common types:
Type
Features
Benefits
Examples
Plug-and-Play
Easy installation, portable
Convenient for temporary use, can be transferred between vehicles
OBD-II
Plugs into the vehicle’s OBD-II port
Provides real-time data, such as speed and engine diagnostics
Hardwired
Connected directly to the vehicle’s power source
Hidden installation, no need to worry about battery life
Covert
Discreet design, difficult to detect
Ideal for covert surveillance or anti-theft purposes
Pro-tip: When selecting a GPS tracker for your car, consider your specific needs, such as ease of installation, real-time tracking capabilities, and level of discretion required.
Choosing the Right GPS Tracker for your car
There are many various options out there for trackers, from the simple magnetic stick under the car, OBD or a hard wired options to choose from. Price point and ease of use is a consideration, some portable or covert options are similar costs to hard wired counterparts, but these portable iterations can be more versatile in multiple usage scenarios.
Choosing the right GPS tracker for your car is crucial for ensuring its security. Here are some steps to help you make an informed decision:
Assess your needs: Determine why you need a GPS tracker, whether it’s for theft prevention, monitoring teenage drivers, or for a commercial fleet management where various options are available.
Research different options: Look for GPS trackers with features that align with your needs, such as real-time tracking, geofencing, and compatibility with mobile apps.
Consider installation: Decide whether you want a wired or wireless tracker and if you’re comfortable with DIY installation or prefer professional assistance.
Check compatibility: Ensure the GPS tracker is compatible with your car’s make and model, and check for any additional requirements.
Compare pricing and subscription plans: Compare the cost of the tracker itself, along with any monthly or annual subscription fees, to find the most cost-effective option.
Read reviews: Look for user reviews and ratings to gain insights into the reliability, accuracy, and customer support of different GPS tracker brands.
Consider additional features: Some GPS trackers offer extras like SOS buttons, battery life indicators, or tamper alerts. Consider these features if they’re important to you.
Tips for Getting the Most Out of Your Car GPS Tracker
To ensure the optimal performance of your car GPS tracker, follow these steps:
Select a reputable GPS tracker brand such as Family1st, Vyncs, or Bouncie.
Conceal the tracker in a secure location within your vehicle.
Ensure the tracker is properly connected to a reliable power source.
Activate the tracker and adjust any necessary settings.
Regularly update the tracker’s firmware and software for the best results.
Set up geofencing to receive alerts if your vehicle enters or exits a designated area.
Monitor the tracker’s location and activity through a secure online platform or mobile app.
Keep the tracker hidden and secure to prevent tampering or theft.
Regularly review and analyse tracking data to identify any suspicious or unauthorized activity.
Contact the relevant authorities if your vehicle is stolen or if you suspect any foul play.
Conclusion
It’s worth considering that some trackers can be fitted by yourself as mini project, where as others may need professional installation. If you have just a plug in or battery powered attached module, then they could be easily disabled and removed once found, but they will provide a level of protection. The key to these devices is to hide them well and make sure they are secured from falling from the vehicle. Keep a regular check on their battery levels. Most hard wired trackers have a built in battery back up which is should be a strong consideration when buying an installation style tracker. If the main battery power supply for the vehicle is disconnected, then this style of tracker will still send location updates which can be crucial if the vehicle is moved even after power any power disconnection. Older vehicles don’t use OBD sockets so that is a limitation to consider. Some owners do not want to make a permanent change to the vehicles wiring, so a simple plug in or hidden portable device is the answer.
Using GPS trackers for car security has become increasingly popular due to their effectiveness in preventing theft and providing real-time tracking. However, it is important to choose a reliable tracker and ensure proper installation. Some top-rated GPS trackers include Family1st and Optimus 2.0.
Additionally, it is recommended to regularly update the tracker’s software and secure it with a strong password. Lastly, always remember to inform your insurance company about the installation of a GPS tracker, as it may qualify you for insurance discounts. Stay vigilant and protect your vehicle with a reliable GPS tracker.
Some trackers only need a live feed and an earth to function, these can be hidden without having to worry about charging the portable device styles.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. How does a GPS tracker work for car security?
– GPS trackers use satellite technology to pinpoint the real-time location of your vehicle. Once installed, they communicate with satellites to provide accurate and up-to-date tracking information through a secure online platform or mobile app.
2. Can GPS trackers be easily detected and disabled by thieves?
– Modern GPS trackers, especially covert models, are designed to be discreet and challenging to detect. Additionally, many trackers have anti-tamper features to prevent easy removal. However, it’s essential to choose a high-quality, well-reviewed tracker and keep its location confidential.
3. Do GPS trackers drain my car’s battery?
– Most GPS trackers have minimal power consumption and are designed to operate efficiently without significantly draining your car’s battery. It’s advisable to choose a tracker with low power consumption and monitor its battery life regularly.
4. Can I use a GPS tracker for multiple vehicles?
– Some GPS trackers, especially plug-and-play models, are portable and can be transferred between vehicles. However, it’s crucial to check the specific features and compatibility of the tracker to ensure it meets your requirements for multiple vehicles.
5. Will using a GPS tracker affect my car’s warranty?
– In most cases, using a GPS tracker will not void your car’s warranty. GPS trackers are typically non-intrusive and do not interfere with the vehicle’s essential systems. However, it’s recommended to check your car’s warranty terms or consult with the manufacturer for confirmation.
6. How can geofencing enhance car security?
– Geofencing allows you to set virtual boundaries for your vehicle. If your car enters or exits these predefined areas, you receive immediate alerts. This feature is valuable for preventing unauthorized use or theft, providing an extra layer of security.
7. Are GPS trackers visible to potential thieves?
– Many GPS trackers are designed to be discreet and hidden within the vehicle. Covert models, in particular, are challenging to detect. However, it’s essential to follow the installation instructions carefully to ensure effective concealment.
8. Will a GPS tracker lower my insurance premiums?
– Informing your insurance provider about the installation of a GPS tracker may qualify you for lower premiums. Many insurance companies view GPS trackers as a proactive measure for theft prevention, reducing the risk of vehicle loss.
9. Can I track my vehicle in real-time using a mobile app?
– Yes, most GPS trackers offer real-time tracking through mobile apps or web interfaces. This allows you to monitor your vehicle’s location, receive instant alerts, and access historical tracking data for added security and peace of mind.
10. What should I do if my GPS tracker indicates suspicious activity or my car is stolen?
– In the event of suspicious activity or theft, contact law enforcement immediately and provide them with the GPS tracking information. Prompt action increases the chances of recovering your vehicle.
Hope that helps a little over the winter months a mini project of a simple Christmas gift could be peace of mind!
My last post showed my ‘homework’ for a prototype part kit I was going to install on my car. I mentioned a while ago to Adam at Mustang Maniac that on longer journeys it would be nice to have a little more legroom. He said that had been asked about it some time ago as well, but there wasn’t really anything on the market. Until now that is, those discussions with Adam have been ongoing and he has had a prototype developed by his engineers. We then discussed how this was going to be done, the original plan was to do some filming of the fitting for their YouTube channel, we decided on a slightly different approach to the original plan for now. Two reasons, the first being the UK’s protest morons that have made getting fuel difficult in some parts of the UK. The second was ‘how difficult would the kit be to fit at home without professional workshop equipment?’ The challenge was accepted, fit the rails at home and share my results with Mustang Maniac while saving myself a fist full of dollars in fuel costs and time.
The seat extension runners came from Mustang Maniac. They are designed to allow an additional 2″ or 4″ movement backwards of the seat for additional legroom while still allowing the seat to adjust on the original runners. These runners are made from a heavy gauge steel with threads and cut-outs which allow for a straightforward installation. These extensions bars will fit all Mustang models from 1964 to 1968 by the way.
From my last post here the rails are dried and already painted with satin black ready for fitting.
There are four studs provided with the extension bar kit to allow the repositioned seat to be bolted back into the car without having to cut the floor pans or seat base.
Depending on your preference of course, you could respray these bars to match your interior as they will be a little more visible from outside as the seat will sit further back on the seat base, but not noticeably so. Satin black is always a good starting point and goes with pretty much everything.
Removing the seat.
Under the car there are four rubber grommets (or should be four) in place where the seat rail studs come through the seat base.
Remove the rubber grommets and inspet the inside. If all is good the studs won’t be correded up and will be easy to remove. If the rubber grommets are missing, or there is corrosion on the studs, then you may need to spray a some WD40 (or similar) to help loosen them up and remove. Make sure to use a good quality socket, if you round the fasterners off then you are in for a whole heap of hurt.
Tip:
Fold the back of the chair forward to the seat base as if you were getting out of the back seats. This helps to balance the weight of the seat and allows the fasteners to be removed without the chair tipping back making removal difficult or even bending a seat stud.
Use a deep reach socket to undo the fasteners.
With all four fasteners removed the seat should lift directly upwards out of the car. Notice in the left-hand pic that the seat falls naturally to the rear. Keep the fasteners safe as they will be used again to refit the seat back into place.
With the seat out, now would be a good time to inspect the seat runners and clean the runners up if needed. Apply a little grease to keep the free movement.
Fitting The Extenders
The bars have to be fitted to their correct left or right hand sides and the right way up. Looking at the seat from below the right hand side has the seat movement handle and a extending bracket. This side will need the cut out sectioned runner to be fitted, as the pics below. You can either attach the studs at this point or later the choice is yours. I prefer to do it later so nothing got in the way.
You will notice that there are holes, recessed holes and threaded holes. The standard holes are to allow flush fitting of the bars to the seat rails where the rivets are. The recessed holes allow for the original seat studs to be held flush to the bar. The threaded holes are for the studs position where you want the actual length of the extension to be.
Below shows the third hole down which is recessed and where the original seat stud(s) will go through.
The top hole is the 4″ extention the second one down is the 2″ extension shown in Red.
Yellow shows the location for the seat rail rivets.
Teal colour shows the seat stud holes.
From the position above turn the bar over to fit onto the seat rail flush. Fit the rail over the original seat studs and use some nuts of the correct thread on the seat studs and tighten the bars firmly into place.
You will now need to cut the original seat rail studs flush with the top of the nut. This has to be done in order to fit the seat back into the car and be bolted back into place. Before you do any cutting, make sure that the seat can still freely move with the seat adjustment handle with the extension bars bolted in place.
You can either mark the studs for cutting and remove the fasteners and bars away from the seat, or do it with the bars still bolted in place which is easier to be honest. I used a Dremel and a thin cut off wheel. Take your time and use goggles in case the cut-off wheel breaks or sparks fly. Going old school with a hacksaw will work just as well. You can see my Dremel in the right-hand picture bottom corner. I also got pretty OCD about it and ground the studs perfectly flush with the fastener.
Fitting The Studs
These new studs have a collar a quarter of the way down. The shorter thread screws are fitted into the extension bars, the longer thread will be going back through the seat base using the original holes.
I painted the top of my studs to match the bars so they were less visible from the outside, just because I could.
You will need a locking pair of grips to screw these replacement studs into place tightly, or a strong hand grip an pliers. I also used a little thread locker to keep them in place. The left-hand picture shows the correct stud fitting.
As I said earlier, if you want the full 4″ extension use the top threaded holes, for the smaller 2″ extension use the second hole down. Fit the second stud at the bottom of the rail extension use the threaded hole just above the larger hole (for the rivet) for the 4″ extension, and the 2″ threaded hole is below the larger hole. See the marked up image earlier on the page. If you are in any doubt measure the original seat stud gap and apply the same gap to the 4″ or the 2″ stud holes.
Refitting The Seat
Take the seat back to the car and drop the studs through the original holes in the seat base and carpet holes. From there screw on the fasteners from underneath the car to hold the seat in place. Refit the carpet spacers and then tighten up the seat properly.
Replace the rubber grommets and the job is done. I sat back in the car and was amazed at the difference that the extra few inches of leg room gives you. For a 6’4″ bloke like me I was always a little crunched up on leg room, that little bit extra makes it so much nicer to drive. Also as the seat base actually slopes down towards the back of the car, in effect I have also gained a little more headroom too. Win/win all round then. 🙂
The fitting was straight forward and I reported my work back to Adam with the photo’s. He has now decided to go into production with the current design. Their measurements were spot on so no need to make any modifications. I suspect they will be on the Mustang Maniac WebShop Soon, along with some of the photos and description of the fitting.
The second part of the my little upgrades I promised was the hood springs. There was nothing wrong with them at all, except that Adam showed me a set he has just fitted to the project car they have in a workshop. I see them, I wanted them it was a simeple as that. Not the cheapest replacement part just for looks, but why not? These springs are super strong and will have the Devil’s bite on you or the car if you get it wrong when replacing them. I packed an old duvet cover around the hood springs and levered of the springs carefully and under control with a large screwdriver come crowbar. They were replaced in a matter of seconds. I was so worried about the springs pinging off and damaging the paint or parts under the car, or flying up and removing part of my jaw that I forgot to take pictures. I do have the before and after pics for you. Most people wont even notice the change and think they are stock parts, but I think they just add a little bit of something extra to look at.
Right hand side:
Left hand side:
The last part of the day’s work was the annual oil and filter change. I tend to do around two thousand miles a year at most. But, I would rather pay £35 for fresh oil just to be on the safe side each year. The K&N gold oil filters I use are a bit bigger than the standard Ford oil filters, which means that I have to put in more oil in than the standard recommend five US quarts to get the levels right.
Now I’m all set for the car show season, apart from a quick wax and once over that is! Lets hope the weather stays fine for the shows. I will let you know as the season goes on.
Over the last few weeks I have been having a few trips down to Mustang Maniac where they have been developing a part which is aimed at people like me. It’s obviously going to be a mustang part, but more for my own pleasure of driving the car.
These heavy gauge steel bars have been black zinc plated for longevity and a good base for some proper coloured paint. A touch of déjà vu transporting me back ten odd years to when my car was being restored; Adam said ‘Take these back with you and satin spray them for your homework’, so that’s exactly what I did the next afternoon.
Preparation
First of all was the prep to make sure a good paint bond where I cleaned the bars with a little isopropanol alcohol to remove any greasy or oil spots from being handled. I set up a line to suspend the bars and started the little and often undercoats to allow faster drying. The same for the satin black top coats to give a nice even coverage. The weather was sunny on and off, warm with a light breeze. Spraying from a rattle can in the breeze is all about timing and technique, the later from me being a little ‘rusty’ from not having done it for a a good few years.
The wife wasn’t to impressed with the new style grey and black patched grass I managed to create for her. The completed articles are mow ready to be taken back to Mustang Maniac for fitting and couple of other little bits at the same time where it would make things a lot easier with a car lift.
There are specific threaded bolts with a mid shoulder that are made specifically for the bars and will replace the originals when fitted.
Some may have an idea of what they are, if you know or think you know drop me comment. I hope to drive the car to Mustang Maniac next week sometime and I will obviously document what they are for then and bring you part two and a review. 👍
