Category: Projects

Original Radio or Modern Upgrade?

What to Check Before Installing a Replacement Head Unit in a Classic Mustang

A classic Mustang radio is not just a source of music. Sitting in the center of the dashboard, its chrome faceplate, dual knobs, and pushbuttons are as much a part of the interior’s identity as the steering wheel or the gauge cluster. That is exactly what makes replacing it such a loaded decision. Swap it out carelessly and you are not just changing how the car sounds. You may be changing how it looks, how its wiring behaves, and how easily a future owner, or a future you, could ever put things back the way they were.

At the same time, an original AM or mono radio was never built with Bluetooth, phone audio, or navigation instructions in mind. For owners who use their Mustangs regularly, that gap between period charm and everyday usability is real. A long highway run deserves music you actually want to hear, and a factory radio from the 1960s was never designed with modern connectivity in mind.

The good news is that the choice is not limited to keeping everything original or ripping it all out. Several routes add modern functionality while preserving very different amounts of the car. Choosing before buying protects the dashboard, wiring, speaker locations, and the possibility of reversing the work later. Working through the options saves both money and regret.

Start with the car, not the radio

Start with the radio opening. Is the original metal intact, or has a previous owner widened it for an aftermarket unit? Are the original shaft holes still present, and is a replacement faceplate hiding earlier cutting? An opening that looks respectable from the front can tell a different story once the trim comes off. Returning an enlarged early Mustang opening to original dimensions may require welding, finishing, and repainting.

Next, identify what is installed: the car’s original radio, a period-correct replacement, a later aftermarket unit, or something non-functional nobody ever got around to sorting out. An original radio belongs to that car; a period-correct unit may be the right type and age without being the one it left the factory with. Check whether the harness is intact or has been spliced and taped, and note any centre-dash, kick-panel, door, rear-deck, or concealed speakers.

Finally, decide what kind of Mustang this is. A concours restoration, a sympathetic driver, and a restomod call for different compromises. Permanent changes do not automatically reduce value, but they can matter to future owners and make a return to the original layout more difficult and expensive.

Knowing where your car and your priorities sit on that spectrum makes every decision that follows much easier.

Option 1: Keep or restore the original radio

Keeping or restoring the original radio preserves the factory dashboard more completely than any replacement: no opening to adapt, no substitute faceplate to make convincing, and no question about whether the knobs and lighting look right. For an originality-focused build, that may matter more than any feature list.

The trade-offs are real. Many original units are AM-only, with mono output, limited power, and aging components that may need specialist attention. Reception can be inconsistent, and Bluetooth, phone audio, USB, or an auxiliary input require modifying or supplementing the system.

None of that makes the choice wrong. A classic car does not have to double as a modern entertainment system, and some owners are perfectly happy with a radio that mostly looks correct and occasionally crackles out an AM station on a summer drive.

If that describes you, there is nothing to apologize for.

Option 2: Modern internals inside an original or period-correct radio

An internal conversion keeps the original or period-correct case, faceplate, and knobs while replacing or supplementing the electronics inside. Depending on the specialist, it may add Bluetooth, an auxiliary input, USB, FM reception, modern amplification, phone audio, or hidden switching through an existing control.

From the outside, the radio still looks right and the dashboard opening can remain untouched. The compromises are internal. The unit is no longer fully original, quality depends heavily on the specialist, and future repairs may require knowledge of that particular conversion. Owners who want to preserve the car’s original radio can convert a suitable period-correct donor and store the original untouched. The factory controls may also make pairing and source selection less intuitive, while a stronger amplifier can expose the limitations of a tired speaker.

Previously covered a period-looking radio using a modern audio circuit and a 3.5 mm input, later paired with a hidden Bluetooth receiver.

Option 3: A retro-style modern replacement radio

A retro-style Mustang radio takes a different approach: rather than modifying an original unit, it replaces it with a purpose-built modern head unit designed to resemble the classic twin-shaft look while running current electronics underneath. Depending on the product, features can include AM/FM, Bluetooth, USB, an auxiliary input, hands-free calling, preamp outputs, and support for modern speakers, though exactly which features are included varies significantly, so the specifications for the specific model matter more than assuming they all behave the same way.

Done well, this route offers a genuinely appealing balance: designed to fit the original-style opening, it tends to be far less visually intrusive than a conventional touchscreen head unit, while still delivering the connectivity a modern radio in a classic car is expected to have. Installed without cutting original metal or wiring, it can also be fairly reversible.

That said, it is not genuinely original, and a digital display, modern lettering, unusual buttons, or the wrong style of lighting can still look out of place against an otherwise untouched dashboard. Build and sound quality vary, and some units need separate Bluetooth modules, microphones, amplifiers, or other accessories to provide every advertised function. A claim that the radio “fits a classic Mustang” may refer only to the front mounting arrangement. Connector position, case depth, heater components, ducting, brackets, and existing wiring can still create problems behind the dash. Treat any fit claim as a starting point for measurement, not permission to order first and investigate later.

Option 4: Hide the modern system and leave the dashboard alone

A hidden audio system places modern equipment out of sight while leaving the visible radio and dashboard untouched. This can take several forms: a small hidden Bluetooth amplifier tucked behind the dash, a headless receiver with no display or physical controls of its own operated through a phone or small remote, a concealed auxiliary or USB input, or a separate modern audio unit hidden in the glove box, console, or trunk. In every version, the original radio can stay exactly where it is, either still functioning or simply serving as a correct-looking display piece.

The appeal is straightforward: the dashboard can remain visually untouched, the system may be reversible, and there is more freedom to choose amplification and speakers than an internal conversion usually provides. The word “may” matters. A hidden amplifier screwed through an original panel and connected through cut factory wiring is no longer a no-modification solution simply because nobody can see it.

The limitations mostly come down to control, wiring, and access. A system operated entirely through a phone or small remote is not always as immediate as a physical knob, so volume and basic controls should be positioned where they can be used without handling a phone on the road. Pairing behaviour, charging, start-up, and source selection all need to be considered before the installation is finished.

Service access matters too. A beautifully concealed component loses some of its charm when half the interior has to come out to reach a fuse or reset button. Hidden systems benefit from labelled connections, a clear wiring plan, and a mounting location that is discreet without becoming inaccessible.

Option 5: Install a fully modern visible head unit

For some cars, a fully modern, visibly modern head unit is simply the right tool for the job rather than a compromise to feel apologetic about. It makes the most sense when the dashboard has already been modified, the car is being built as a restomod, or originality is not a major priority and the owner wants a touchscreen, built-in navigation, camera integration, advanced phone controls, or direct access to a wider range of audio settings and sources.

The disadvantages are most obvious in an otherwise period-correct early Mustang. A modern screen and control layout can clash with the dashboard, and some installations require irreversible cutting of the original opening. If original metal is removed, returning to an original-style radio later may involve welding, finishing, and repainting rather than simply buying the correct faceplate. Larger screens can obstruct nearby controls or look disproportionate beside the original gauges, while amplifiers, multiple speakers, USB charging, and other accessories may place additional demands on the wiring, grounding, and charging system.

None of this means a modern radio always damages the dashboard. Plenty of installations rely on adapters, custom consoles, or dashboards already modified before the current owner got involved, and in those cases a fully modern unit can be a perfectly sensible, low-drama choice.

What to check before buying or installing any replacement radio

Once you have an idea of which direction fits your car, a handful of practical checks apply no matter which option you are leaning toward.

Dashboard opening and dimensions

Confirm the shaft spacing or other mounting arrangement, faceplate dimensions, available depth, and any rear support. Check clearance around heater controls, ducts, brackets, wiring, and accessories behind the dash. Find out whether cutting or drilling is required and whether the correct adapter, faceplate, and support bracket are available. A unit that lines up at the front may still have nowhere sensible to go at the back. A product photograph or vague “fits classic Mustang” claim is no substitute for measurements from the car itself.

Electrical system and wiring

Confirm the voltage and polarity for the exact car, then inspect the existing wiring rather than trusting decades-old insulation. The unit needs correct grounding, a properly fused supply, and correctly identified switched and constant power where required. Also consider charging-system capacity and whether an adapter harness can avoid cutting original wires.

There is no universal wiring diagram for every classic Mustang and every previous repair. If the wiring is altered, overheated, damaged, or poorly documented, use a qualified auto electrician rather than guessing. Previously documented original wiring that was far worse than it first appeared, a useful reminder that old wiring is not necessarily safe simply because it still works.

The radio is part of the car’s electrical system, not a self-contained box, and any installation plan should treat it that way. My previous owner had wrapped tin foil around the fuse, which can be seen in the image above, that unsafe practice set fire under the dash. causing a total loss of dash wire loom and the headlight loom under the hood.

Speakers and realistic sound expectations

Upgrading the head unit while ignoring the speakers is one of the most common ways to end up disappointed with a new install.

 A better head unit cannot compensate for unsuitable speakers. A car still relying on one center-dash speaker will have limited stereo separation, and an aging speaker may not suit a modern unit’s output. Impedance and power handling must match the radio or amplifier, while a compatible dual-voice-coil center speaker can sometimes retain a single visible speaker location.

Kick-panel, door, rear-deck, under-seat, and concealed speakers each trade sound against appearance and reversibility. Any new cut-out is effectively permanent, so think before reaching for a hole saw. What worked in another Mustang is not automatically right for yours.

And it is worth admitting, with a small smile, that in a V8 Mustang the engine and exhaust may still win the volume contest no matter how good the new system sounds.

Antenna and radio reception

Check the antenna connection, cable, adapter requirements, and grounding before blaming poor reception on the radio. The original plug may not connect directly to a modern unit, while corrosion, a damaged cable, electrical interference, or a weak ground can produce much the same symptoms. I have previously covered this Fitting Semi Automatic Aerial

Total cost

The price tag on the radio is only the opening bid. Depending on the option chosen, the full project may also involve speakers, wiring, adapters, a specialist conversion, an amplifier, an antenna adapter, antenna, installation labour, dashboard repair, replacement trim, and the inevitable troubleshooting that comes with any older car. Budgeting for the radio alone, then discovering the rest of the system afterward, is one of the more common ways an upgrade ends up costing more than naively expected.

Be careful when buying a used modern head unit

A used OEM head unit, meaning a radio originally produced by the vehicle manufacturer rather than an aftermarket product, whether sourced from a donor car or a salvage yard, can be a tempting shortcut, but it carries its own risks. It may be incompatible with your specific car despite looking similar, arrive missing wiring or accessories, require programming before it works at all, or come with an unknown service history that makes troubleshooting harder later.

Some later OEM radios use an anti-theft code after losing power. This does not apply to original 1960s Mustang radios, and not every donor or aftermarket unit is code-protected. Before installing a used OEM unit, confirm whether it is security locked and make sure its serial number is available. For supported radios, FindRadioCode.com is an online service that can look up the required unlock code using the unit’s serial number, which can save a real headache if you end up with a locked radio and no paperwork from the original car.

Which option suits which type of Mustang owner?

With the main routes and practical checks in mind, it helps to think about which direction actually fits your car and your priorities, rather than which option sounds most impressive.

An originality-focused restoration, particularly one aimed at judged shows, tends to favor retaining or professionally restoring the original radio, since nothing else preserves the correct dashboard appearance as completely. An owner who wants modern convenience without ever looking at a modern radio is usually best served by an internal conversion or a hidden audio system, both of which keep the visible dashboard essentially untouched.

A classic that gets driven often, where usability matters as much as looks, may benefit most from a direct-fit retro-style radio that offers real functionality without demanding a fully modern appearance. A restomod, or a car whose dashboard has already been altered, is often a natural fit for a fully modern system, since much of the originality argument no longer applies. And a car with genuinely damaged wiring or an already-cut dashboard deserves to be assessed as a complete project, with the electrical and bodywork addressed as part of the same plan rather than choosing a radio first and discovering the real scope of the job afterward.

None of this should be read as a rigid rule book. Your own priorities, the actual condition of your car, and how much you value reversible versus permanent work should guide the final decision more than any general framework.

The best replacement head unit for a classic Mustang is not necessarily the one with the longest feature list. It is the one that delivers the convenience you actually want without creating dashboard damage, wiring problems, or visual changes you will regret once the excitement of the new gadget wears off.

Before buying anything, take the time to inspect the dashboard and wiring honestly, decide how much originality genuinely matters to you, and lean toward reversible work wherever the option exists. Plan the wiring and speakers as part of the same project rather than an afterthought, and if you remove any original parts along the way, keep them somewhere safe. Radios get swapped, upgraded, and swapped again over a car’s life, but original parts, once discarded, rarely come back.

Whatever you end up installing, it is worth remembering that in a V8 Mustang, the most authentic sound system in the car was never really the one in the dashboard at all.

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Trial & Error

For a few years I have been doing some tweaks here and there on the car, one of those bigger projects was the LED bulbs all round. At the back of the car the rear licence plate bulb was the biggest pain to source one that would fit in the original factory housing. I tried many variations some were close others not so. The left pic below is the now dedicated draw now allocated for bulbs, the right pic shows the original bulb (copper bottom) in the middle, with the other trial and errors bulbs around it. Some were too long, too wide or the bulb glass (plastic) to bulbous to fit under the lamp holders glass cover itself. Then there was front focussed light, 360o light shine, light pattern, colour temperature, brightness, bottom housing fitting, wattage etc etc. Some bulbs what I thought would look good were in fact quite poor lighting options when plugged into my dummy rig to see what they would look like before I took the holder off the rear bumper and started making a mod to the wiring loom.

I spent many an hour making mods to a couple of the bulbs that had potential with the Dremel in a vain attempt to make them fit. A slight slip of the Dremel grinder ruined a promising bulb that was just a bit to wide, luckily those bulbs came in pairs.

The before and after of the grinding was fine, there was no cover for these LEDs themselves which shouldn’t be to much of a problem as the bulb sits behind a opaque glass bowl if you like. To make the bulb fit under the glass properly it would need more work on one side of the bulb fitting, in doing so it would be getting dangerously close to the LEDs themselves. Before I got carried away I quickly put it back together with the glass cover sort of half in place held by a bit of clear tape to see what it would look like at night, it wasn’t good. There was so much white light I could expect a pull over from the local plod in their donut cars as you’re not supposed to show white to the rear in the UK. This bulb was on another level and would be more like towing a WWII search light behind me.

That bulb was discarded and the original put back in for now. After many, many searches and I eventually found a match same size bulb and voltage. Best of all it was a comparable wattage to the original bulb, I placed the order which was shipped from China (of course) to the UK.

The new bulb was still quite bright, but I figured it should be OK.

This LED bulb thing is all a little bit of a moot point as I tend not to drive at night anyway. However, if I needed to, then the LED bulbs are a significant improvement for safety. The reason I mention all this now is because of a recent trip trip to Mustang Maniac where I watched as they were making a custom fit LED board for a customer’s car. They had to make bulbs from bulbs and then set the brightness. I wasn’t aware that it could be done to that degree and spent some time with Mark to see how I could make their ideas work for me.

I purchased a box of various resistors taking on board the advice I was given. This box is complete overkill of 350 pcs, I only wanted one or maybe two variations of a resistor. The complete box was the cost only a large coffee so I couldn’t complain.

There’s a lot to understand about resistors; basically wattage and resistance describe two different, but connected processes a resistor performs in a circuit. First is Ohms (Ω) tell you how much the resistor limits electrical current, a higher Ohm value means more resistance and less current flow. Second is Wattage (W) tells you how much power the resistor can safely dissipate as heat without burning out. So the Ohms value sets the electrical behaviour, while the Watt rating sets the physical durability. A resistor with the right resistance but too low a Wattage may overheat, whereas a resistor with the correct Wattage but wrong resistance will change how the circuit works. You can also fit a resistor either direction as they aren’t polarised. If you need a specific Ohm rating you can add one after the other to achieve the correct rating.

As the licence plate bulb only has a single live feed, the earth is handled via the bodywork. The live feed just needs an inline resistor so the LED’s bulb brightness is reduced as a result.

In the trunk the live is taken from the rear drive lights feed via a T-junction split and a connector. The wire then passes behind the rear bumper to the lamp holder out of direct line of sight. This will be a quick task to make up an insert male and female fitting at each end to connect it back up again. If I don’t want to use the resistor, I can just remove the inserted resistor and reconnect the original wire back to the normal live feed voltage.

When I rewired the car I didn’t use all the options of the American Autowire kit, that left me with various amounts wires of different colours and a number of connectors to go with them. A short clip from one of the coils of wire I used was the same gauge as the live feed about to be modified.

The short wire was cut in half and each end of the wire was tinned with the soldering iron. My American Autowire crimps were pulled out of retirement and used to secure the male spade connector and protected with heat shrink.

The resistor I chose was a 330 Ohms which should roughly half the output. In order to make the resistor lay flat inline; wrap the wire leg of the resistor around a small jewellers screwdriver the same size as the gauge of wire to be used forming a tight coil. I didn’t realise the picture was out of focus (sorry), but you get the idea. Trim the coil flush to make sure no sharp parts are sticking up and potentially cause a short.

Thread the new wire into the coil and add some flux, fresh solder on the iron and tap it onto the join you just created. Before the last female spade connector is added slide over the shrink wrap and then repeat the process and solder the other end of the resistor. Add a spade protector on the female spade connector and crimp. Once completed and fully heat shrunk, I checked the resistance with a multi-meter to make sure connections were solid and working.

To create the inline project that I wanted, the live feed wire needed to be modified to add the additional spade fitting rather than a direct solder of the resistor, my fail safe if you like. This additional could then be re-joined in seconds to the main loom if needed, or connect another resistor inline back to the main rear end wire harness. I remade the duel spade (T-junction) split along with the new single connection needed for the lamp holder.

With the new inline resistor in place it only added a couple of extra inches so the extra length could easily be hidden back behind the filler cap support. Here the fittings are in place to recreate the original look before I added the resistor.

With everything in place the garage door was closed and turned the lights off. I turned the car’s lights on and I could see that everything was working fine. Once the door was open again I could finish the job by wrapping the wire loom up with some cloth OEM look wire loom tape, but not on the resistor section as that may need to dissipate heat, not that it gets that hot anyway. The resistor section is insulated by the heat shrink and the rubber spade fitting covers.

Until I can get a good view in the dark and out in the open I wont be able to see if the light output is adequate or still too much. The results so seem to be what I’m after and not far away from the original bulb output, all be it a cleaner light.

With that in mind while the soldering iron was still hot and the resistors were out, I repeated the process for another inline with a resistance of 220 Ohms which will allow a little brighter light than the installed 330 Ohms. It will only take seconds to swap out which is the beauty of this idea. If the result still isn’t what I’m after, I can just knock up some more variations until I’m happy. There is no after picture of the rear loom as it’s all hidden away again, and nothing to see.

The only visible difference is the cool white light instead of the dull orange glow of the original incandescent bulb. The change to the lighting type of the cool white light picks out the silver lettering from the black background of the licence plate better for more effect.

Before & after comparison of the resistance hack:

A short and sweet little project from something that was in the back of my mind that needed addressing at some point. It’s funny how a chance conversation can lead to these little projects, all sorted for now.

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Off To A Flying Start

Last Sunday was the first booked car show for me at Kersey Mill a short trip fifteen miles away about thirty minutes away. This year the plan was to go the back route for a relaxing scenic drive with no pressure of the main roads. Before I had even got out of my little village or off choke at eight thirty on a Sunday morning, some idiot nearly took me out being on my side of the road coming round a corner. If I had of been doing thirty miles an hour it would have been a head on crash, best of it was he had a young kid in the front seat as well. I think I may have woken a few people up as my window was down as I expressed my displeasure in a raised tone, nothing from the driver he just carried on.

The rest of the drive was serene and enjoyable, many of the little villages that I passed through had speed limits in place so the car was just running on tick over through them, hence the longer time to get there. The marshal on the gate asked me if I was with a club which I wasn’t and directed me to field four. The trouble was I missed the entrance to the area and carried on round the corner. The marshal here was the opposite, a little bit of power had gone to his head and wouldn’t allow me to go back to the other field, about five seconds round the corner, even though nothing was coming up the path. Instead he ‘told’ me to park next to a red Alpha under a row of trees, err no! In my defiance I parked in the middle of the hard standing to keep away from tree sap and potential bird deposits. He didn’t look to impressed, I didn’t care to be honest, within a minute or so I was being surrounded with other cars with the same thoughts as me. I was next to cherry blossom tree which smelt amazing.

This is a great show with lots of different cars on display, from steam driven oldies to the less attractive couple of year old Tesco car park specials, I don’t bother taking photos of those, even with that in mind, I still ended up taking over two hundred pics.

I started taking photos in the hard standing area which was near the near the food, the smell of bacon rolls added to the lovely morning fresh air. Speaking of air this Chevy Bel Air (see what I did there) was pristine.

Walking through the end of the hard standing there was another field with lots more cars and a couple of car clubs, mainly Mini and Lotus.

My runner up car of the show is this glorious Model A, a rust patina special. This is about as original as it will ever get. Credit to the guy who drove it in.

This Mustang is modified with a wide body kit and Lambo doors, you either like the doors or you don’t. For me I can appreciate the work involved, but it’s not my thing I’m afraid.

Moving back to towards the mill itself there were some great oldies parked in prime positions at the front.

Around the side of the house were some super cars where I caught up with my Mate Craig, who has shared some of his photos with me for this post.

Either side of the main path into the mill itself there are display areas either side.

I used to play a game ‘Need for Speed Underground’ and my son used to customise this car to the max, the legendary Toyota Supra. Not seen one of these spec cars for a while.

This 1966 Plymouth Barracuda fastback was amazing, the rear glass section on this car is a work of art, I wouldn’t want to try and source one of them if it broke!

Mart’s Car of the Show

I haven’t seen an original untouched BMW M3 E30 (the proper M3) for such a long time, then this beauty parked up just behind me. A modern classic that dominated touring car racing late 80’s and early 90’s. He didn’t stay that long, but I’m glad I caught some pics of it.

Early afternoon a few cars started to leave, Craig and Lee decided to bring their cars into the show and parked up next to me and we had our own mini car show. After some lunch and a chat they went of for more car spotting and photos while I desperately tried to keep myself from falling asleep due to the early start, busy pretending to keep an eye on the cars.

Thanks to Lee, for this artistic pic. You can find him on Instagram @s2kathome

A little while later I decided to leave around three to miss the traffic as the show closed at four. Craig stood in a strategic place and caught some cars leaving.

He even managed to grab a couple of me leaving too. Thanks Craig for the pics.

I absolutely love this picture.

The drive home was just as leisurely as the drive there. What is better than a scenic route home, window open and a V8 rumble in your ears? A great day out with mates and looking forward to more. Hopefully I will catch up with Craig and Lee at more shows this year with our cars together.

After the quick detail to remove the road dust and put the car away, I plonked myself on the sofa and feel asleep for an hour (or so) cuddled up with my little dog. What a great way to end the day.

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Spotless Washing?

It’s known that I’m a bit of car cleaning weekend warrior. Not just my Mustang at car shows, but my daily drivers too. There is a problem with wet washing which drives me mad, hard water. In my area of the country the water is notoriously bad. I will explain this in a bit more detail as I have been looking into various water filtration options, so this post and an article all in one. Hope its not to long.

​What Exactly Is ‘Hard Water’?

​In simple terms, hard water is the stuff that comes out of your mains water supply with a high mineral content. While rain water is naturally soft, as it percolates through the ground into our reservoirs and aquifers, it picks up bits of calcium, magnesium, and sometimes even chalk or limestone. By the time it travels through the pipes, get treated at water plants and add chlorine to that as well, it then travels down miles of pipes and reaches your household taps and your garden hose, it’s a mineral cocktail.

​While some minerals might be fine for you, they are the absolute nemesis for a clean car. When you spray that tap water onto your paintwork and let it dry, the H2O (water) evaporates back into the air, but the minerals stay left behind. They can bond to the surface, creating those stubborn unsightly “water spots” or “limescale” marks that we all dread as car detailers, or even the weekend warriors who just want a shiny car. This is a reason why car detailers carry their own water around to make their life easier and avoid those water marks. Sometimes these marks looks like a small octopus has climbed over your car, the rings look exactly like that, but whitish. ​Most people think water spots are just an aesthetic nuisance, a bit of white dust that can be wiped away. ​The real danger lies in what happens when those minerals from the mains water are left to bake in the sun. Calcium and magnesium (also bird mess) are alkaline. When they sit on your clear coat (or your single-stage paint if you’re still running an original classic paint), they begin a process called etching. It’s like a tiny, slow-motion chemical burn taking place. The minerals actually eat into the surface of the paint. If you run your finger over a bad water spot, you might feel a slight indentation. That’s not dirt sitting on the paint; that’s the paint itself being damaged. Once it reaches that stage, no amount of washing or polishing will fix it.

​Damage Control: Removing Water Spots Without Killing Your Wax

​If you’ve found your pride and joy covered in these white rings, you need to be careful before diving into removal. Most people reach for household remedies, but if you’ve spent all Saturday applying a high-quality carnauba wax or a high-tech sealant, the wrong “fix” will strip that protection off in seconds.

​1. The Chemical Route – The Professional Way

​Before you start rubbing the paint, try a dedicated Water Spot Remover. Products like CarPro Spotless, Gtechniq W9, Chemical Guys Heavy Duty Water Spot Remover Gyeon Q2M water spot remover etc. are all specifically formulated with mild acids that break down the bond between the mineral and the paint while being as gentle as possible on the underlying surface.

​2. The Vinegar Dilemma

​A 50/50 mix of white vinegar and distilled water is the classic “old school” fix. The acetic acid in the vinegar is great at dissolving calcium.

​The Catch: Vinegar is an acid. While it’s great for the spots, it is brutal on car wax. If you use vinegar to clean your spots, you are effectively stripping away your wax protection. It leaves the paint naked as such and vulnerable to the next lot of hard water or UV rays. If you do use this method, you really should re-wax the area immediately.

​The “No-Go” List: Chemicals That Destroy the protection of your wax and sealants while fighting hard water, avoid these like the plague:

​All-Purpose Cleaners (APC) & Degreasers: Many people use these to “boost” their wash. Don’t. High-alkaline cleaners are designed to break down oils and waxes. They will leave your sealant patchy and ineffective.

​Dish Soap (e.g., Fairy Liquid or Dawn Ultra etc.): These are an ultimate sin, yes they clean, but often have elements of salt as a stabilizer. We know what salt can do cars – rust! Dish soap is designed to strip grease from pans, it will strip every bit of wax off your car, leaving the paint dry and prone to more severe water etching. Addition of salt that could be left behind, you are making things worse.

​Bleach-Based Cleaners: Never let anything containing bleach near your car. It will dry out your rubber trim and chemically attack the clear coat.

​Aggressive Household Limescale Removers: Products meant for your bathroom tiles are far too acidic. They won’t just remove the water spots; they can stain the paint and permanently dull the finish.

​Alcohol-Heavy Sprays: While Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is great for prep, using it as a “quick fix” for water spots, it will also instantly dissolve any wax or polymer sealant you have on the car. Good for starting from scratch if you want to rewax your car to remove old tired layers of wax or sealants.

Abrasive Pads: Dish scouring pads or bathroom cleaning pads, you know the sort with the sponge and a layer of plastic nylon to get seriously aggressive with stubborn cleaning jobs. They will destroy your paint and can even lead to having a respray, DON’T do it. Polishing pads used by professionals are virtually always foam, sometimes lambs wool for deep cutting or heavy paint correction. I don’t need to mention steel wool pads either do I? That is obviously, down to bare metal stuff.

All of this now leads into what I’ve just bought to save me time and effort to remove water spots; ‘Prevention is better than correction’. I have been looking into the ‘Spotless’ washing systems. This is treatment of the water that you put on your cars which will stop the water spots appearing in the first place. My purchased was a Spotless water system by ‘SpotBye’ and I’ve used it to create a review. I have created that page here, or click the link below for the complete setup guide, and a review of the results. Spoiler alert, it’s a game changer!

https://onemanandhismustang.com/spotbye-water-deioniser-system/

​If like me you’re stuck with hard water from the tap, you have to change your strategy. You can’t really just drench the whole car and then dry it at the end, well you could, but it won’t be a great finish. This is especially true on my black cars that shows the world and his mate for any marks what so ever. Try working smarter, not harder with a couple of tips from me:

​The Sectional Wash: Work on one panel at a time. Wash the roof, rinse it with the hose, and dry it immediately. This prevents the tap water from sitting long enough to evaporate and leave minerals behind. Move onto the hood, then the fenders and doors etc. Work your way down the car, the dirtiest part of the car is always lower down.

​The “Sheet” rinse: Take the nozzle off the hose. Let a steady, gentle stream of tap water flow over the panels. This “sheeting” effect leaves much less water on the car than a high-pressure spray which will leave droplets on the surface of the paint.

​Drying Aids: (A useful process I often use). While the car is wet, spray a product like Chemical Guys After Wash, Gyeon Q2M WetCoat, Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Wax, Dat Wax Hydrophobic Protective Sealant or a quick detailer etc. These products lubricate the surface and help neutralise the minerals, making them much easier to wipe away before they can bond or dry out on your paint.

​Use a good quality microfibre cloth: A plush “twisted loop” drying towel is essential like Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth or Slim’s Drying Towel. These towels are designed to pull the moisture and the minerals from the surface of the paint in a single pass rather than dragging them across the surface.

My new setup:

​There are multiple ways to soften the water, that will save you time and effort in the long run. There are canister style, an inline tube, wall mounted, dual filters all the way up to the professional pumped options.

Before I show you the setup and use, this is NOT a sponsored post, the product was purchased with my own hard earned money. I have been trying to talk myself into this for a couple of years now. As I now have two black daily driver cars, this turned out to be a quick discussion and I didn’t put up much of an argument with myself after struggling to keep the cars presentable. I did my research and I bought ‘SpotBye’ canister system. Depending on your needs this may not be for you, but from what I have seen, its a great purchase.

These next few steps shows a quick setup guide for the equipment. The FULL setup details and downloadable manuals are in the link here or the link above.

SpotBye is a basically De-ionising Resin vessel. It’s a cylinder that connects inline with your hose. They remove 100% of the minerals.

The setup was quite simple, although the instructions are dire to be honest. After unpacking you need to add a resin into the canister carefully so the resin doesn’t get into the centre tube. The centre tube which passes the treated water out the canister is removable. Open the vacuum packet resin packet (5ltr) and carefully fill the canister, this is the media that filters the water. SpotBye does supply a rubber cap to prevent the resin going into the tube.

Screw the cap on and attach the standard size fittings for your hose.

The supplied water testing tool shows just how bad our water is. The classification level for hard water is anything over 120 ppm (parts per million). From my tap drinking water tap it was 309ppm!!

Attach the garden hose (yellow) to the ‘In’ and another shorter hose to the ‘Out’ fitting (green) for the water spray attachment you want to use. Allow the water to run a couple of minutes to flush the hoses through and get the resin working. The reading after a couple of minutes was astounding, 20ppm in this picture, but even went down to 18ppm. However, it’s noted that the filtration should be 0ppm according to SpotBye. But, an improvement of 96% was good enough for me. The green hose was all I have left which is sometimes use for syphoning a water feature. A new one is on order as I write this up.

I deliberately left my car to get dirty (such is the sacrifice I make for these reviews)! It was bad as there has been some ‘Sahara’ sand which was mixed in with the UK’s famous rain which leaves this nasty mess which looks even worse on my black cars.

Close-up view of a black car hood with visible dust and dirt, reflecting the sky.
A close-up view of a dirty, wet surface reflecting the sky, with droplets of water and specks of dirt.

Washing the car was a breeze, even on a warm day in direct sunlight and on a hot car, all of which are big no-no’s by the way for cleaning a car. There was copious amounts of suds from the car shampoo which lasted a long time on the car, something I haven’t had before, to this degree anyway.

With the car cleaned it was rinsed of and again deliberately not dried to see what happens if the dreaded water spots showed up. There was some light sheeting marks which dried of wit h a drying towel without any effort.

The pic below left of the door mirror shows what I mean, the rinsing ran of the car instead of sitting on the panel on the right pic.

The image here is dotted to show where I half dried the door in the sun.

Close-up of a black car door showing water droplets and a reflection, with a red dashed line marked along the surface.

Once dried there was no water marks even in this extreme scenario of hot weather, hot panels and in direct sunlight. From the image below in the shadow on the left there is no water marks. The white bits you can see is in fact the paint pearl effect glinting in the sun, you can also see the pink, green, blue, red and yellows of the pearl paint. The phone was having trouble to trying to focus but settled on the reflection of the fence.

Close-up view of a shiny car door reflecting sunlight and the surrounding environment, with some dirt and smudges visible on the surface.

With the car dried the car was literally ‘spotless’ as this type of washing technique is referred to. I was also interested to see what it would be like after a quick detailing. Why? Just because I could. The results were even better than when I picked the car up from the showroom.

Close-up view of a black SUV parked on a gravel driveway, showcasing its shiny exterior and black rims.
A black SUV parked on a gravel surface, showcasing its side profile, tinted windows, and a sleek design.

Here are some close ups of the paint with no water marks, the bottom right is the reflection of the house taken on the hood looking forwards, which is why it looks upside down!

To get a great finish the paint needs to be smooth to give a uniform reflection of light. Having no contaminates on the surface goes a long way to help with the desired reflective gloss. All of this comes at a cost though, to keep the water pure as it can be the resin which decontaminates the water needs to be replaced, around £35 for 5ltr which is what my canister holds. The harder the water the quicker the resin will need to be replaced. The recommended output is 520gallons at 200ppm. The fact that the car wash literally took half the time and was so much easier that cost is worth it to me.

​At the end of the day we spend a lot of money on fancy shampoos and waxes to keep our cars looking their best. It seems a bit mad to ruin all that hard work by drenching the car in liquid limestone from the garden hose.

I hope that gives a little insight to the finer points of detailing. Yes its over kill for some, but saving time back for myself and saving physical effort in order to get that good result is worth the small amount of money per car wash. I even save on not having to by products to correct a problem. Buying a few bottles of products to overcome these problems would outweigh the cost of the system I just bought.

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Flat Pack Mustang

Since I can remember I have a little ritual at the end of the year when i take a few days of from work. I like to make something, no matter how small or big to focus on something completely different. Last year was no different with a little prezzie left on my PC’s keyboard. Thinking it was a voucher of some sort I opened it up to find something unusual, a flat pack of two laser cut sheets of metal to make up a 3D 1965 Mustang.

Packaging for a Metal Earth 1965 Ford Mustang steel model kit, featuring a silver model of the car with details about assembly and age recommendations.
Packaging for a Metal Earth model kit featuring a 1965 Ford Mustang, including images, instructions for assembly, and promotional content.

The kit was no bigger than an A6 sheet and looked interesting. I had never heard of ‘Metal Earth’ before, but after a quick bit of research they make quite a few different kits, something for everybody.

I have completed a full walkthrough and build here, of cut and past this link to your browser: https://onemanandhismustang.com/metal-earth-1965-ford-mustang-model-kit/

My wife was out for the day so I had some peace and quiet to build my model. I put some music on in the background and settled down for a few hours. I won’t repeat everything that is on the walkthrough page, but just some of the highlights and a couple of low lights I encountered during the build. The photos have some random colour tinges to them, but the model is a shiny polished steel, except where some detailing has been added for effects. The kit recommends some tweezers, needle nosed pliers and wire cutters where I fetched in from the garage some of my Snap On tools. The tweezers needed to be top quality in order to create the bends and folds for the models to join together via the tab and slot process.

The instructions were just diagrams which suits me as I’m a visual/kinaesthetic learner. The parts needed to be clipped away from the sheet, this is where the accurate and clean cutting by my wire cutters was invaluable. Pay close attention to the which are the mounting lugs on the sheet and which is the actual tabs for the fitting of the model. You are shown what to bend and where (the red bits on the diagrams), in order to make the parts fit together.

The hood, roof trunk and sides all needed to be linked together for the main shape, the sides added to hold the upper body all together. The tabs slot into openings and need to be bent over to hold the pieces together.

Some of these parts are insanely small which are then built up to create the 3D image. The two images below are the rear lights

With the upper body complete it was onto the chassis, this is where things got a little frustrating, during the bending process which I was very careful of doing, the fold lines snapped while trying to create the wheel arches. The left image shows the broken away section.

You could superglue the parts together but that would need to be a very accurate positioning. Instead I used a ultraviolet setting glue. I didn’t fully set the part together, just enough to hold the position but moveable. You apply the glue, then shine the ultra violet light which sets the glue hard. Only a partial exposure would be a soft set. When I was sure of the position i completed the full light exposure to give a strong bond.

The interior, seats, centre console, gear stick and steering wheel were added to the floor pan to complete. Again a seat back broke as I was bending it up into position, the other one was fine. Lower left image shows the broken seat.

The Wheels and axles was cleaver, two disk to make the front and back with a band to make the tread.

Fitting the rear axle to the floor pan another breakage that need some gluing, lower left image. The top image is complete repair.

The two halves were ready to be joined. At this point I had a good idea where the bends were supposed to be so I could finish the setting of the glue points.

Fitting together was satisfying as the model took shape, Some fettling to bend and align the parts was needed but nothing much. At this point nothing really aligned correctly, I sorted that out a bit later.

The back of the car need the bumper over riders which were only 1mm when folded.

The Front of the car needed the most amount of fettling to get things to fit, the stone guard, bumper and grill all needed to be aligned and was the trickiest part of the build keeping partially completed parts together while trying to fit to the upper body and floor pan.

Once everything was technically attached and in place, I was using the tweezers to hold the part and the other to make the bends to align up correctly..

The finished article was satisfactory.

A detailed metal model of a vintage Ford car positioned on a textured blue surface.

The model isn’t the prettiest I have seen, but by nature of the kit it isn’t bad and certainly something different to make. It took about six hours to complete, including the regluing and taking pictures for the guide. The glued parts was on the inside and can’t be seen from the outside, which is good. The overall size is quite small at: 9 x 2.5 x 3.2 cm.

For the cost of £10 it was a fun way to spend some time and forget your troubles for a few hours. Not the greatest of modelling experiences I have had, but a challenge to create from a flat pack to 3D. I’m just glad it wasn’t an Ikea full sized model!

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Merry Christmas

I would like to wish all my readers, followers and casual browsers a very Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. I look forward to bringing you more reviews, memorabilia, walkthroughs and of course lots of car show photos in the coming year.

My little ol’ blog has been evolving into a ‘blogsite’ over the last couple of years with my stats telling me that I’m approaching a truly amazing 1,550,000 views, which I never believed would be possible. I fund this blogsite all by myself with a small contribution from the WordPress adds (sorry) now and then which contributes to the hosting fees, registration and everything else (but doesn’t cover it all) that goes with an online presence. I can only say a huge and sincere “Thank You” to everyone for keeping me encouraged to continue and making this all worth while.

A classic blue Mustang parked in a snowy landscape with Christmas lights in the background, featuring the text 'Merry Christmas & Happy New Year' in a festive font.

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year, see you all in 2026.

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TomTom GO 600 Battery Replacement

After some twelve plus years I now have an issue with my most trusted TomTom Go 600, the battery has died. You may be asking why am I bothered as Google Maps is available phones, updated regularly and works, some consider it better than many dedicated SatNavs, TomTom or Garmin to name just a couple. Even my daily driver has an up-to-date SatNav which I use, a lot. This TomTom Go 600 is used in my Mustang and sits on the centre console in a weighted mount setup. I need guidance to virtually any location where I can’t see my own house. I honestly get lost anywhere, even somewhere that I’ve been before, often a standing joke with friends and family. I prefer to use the TomTom instead of the phone with google maps and the smart watch on my wrist for turn by turn notifications which is great, but the phones battery gets drained before I even get to the location. At car shows most of the phones battery is used up with the camera usage and then a little bit of reading while sitting in my chair. I often take a backup charger with me just in case I need to charge the phone, but it’s a pain. It’s often easier to plonk the SatNav on the console, plug it in so there is no battery worry on the phone. Besides, the screen is bigger on the TomTom and the sound is louder for directions.

On this device the battery lasts about one hour when not plugged in, or I can’t be bothered to plug into the cigarette lighter for the shorter trips. The battery no longer holds a charge of any sort, often to the point that even with power from the cigarette lighter, it can’t hold the power so the unit has shut off on me a few of times. Without external power, the device hardly has enough power to show the empty battery symbol and just dies, not even a proper shut down.

After a quick bit of research I found video on YouTube as a tutorial on how to change the battery, it was worth a go. Why go to the bother, just get an up-to-date model? I certainly could upgrade, however this model has free map updates for life! After twelve years, every few months I get a map update. This device owes me nothing, so a replacement battery and some cheap tools from Amazon £20 all in, would be worth a go. The battery arrived the next day along with the tools needed to take these sort of devices apart. I also needed a pen knife, a blunt one which is sometimes used to open packages etc.

Disclaimer: If you attempt this repair, it’s of your own choice and I won’t be held responsible for any damage or loss.

My experience of the practical wasn’t so easy as the video suggested, so I thought I would document what I did to fix it. I don’t know if the models are designed differently after a while, but my internals were a little different to the YouTube video even though it was the same model designation.

The first step was to separate the two halves of the device, this is where the plastic tools came in, well to start with anyway.

Close-up of a person's hand holding a TomTom Go 600 device with a plastic opening tool inserted, revealing the ports and button layout on the back.

The two parts we so well together I had to get the penknife to get between the two halves and lever them apart. As I worked my way round I used triangular picks in various place to stop the device snapping back together again. There are no screws that hold the two halves together. As the device separated I heard a couple of little snaps where the plastic catches has snapped below right. I was not brutal in fact rather careful, perhaps the plastic is getting brittle with age. The face has a little piece of tape which holds the screen ribbon in place just before the connector itself to the main motherboard.

With the screen out of the way the plastic flat ribbon needs to be eased out of the connector by moving the white clamp towards the ribbon which will release the pressure on the clamp and allow the cable to be pulled out.

The two halves are now fully separated, put the screen to one side out of harms way. The below image shows one of the additional sprung connections at the tip of the screw driver. These are delicate and transfer the touch inputs of the screen to the main board. Hence the flat metal plate that is on the back of the screen.

A close-up of a screwdriver being used on the internal circuit board of a TomTom Go 600 GPS device.

Next we need to disconnect the speaker and the battery connections, using the plastic tools separate the two plugs.

Get yourself a nice set of screw drivers to remove the five flat cross head screws holding the circuit board to the back case.

With the screws removed lift the top of the board, the opposite to the connections at the bottom. With the board elevated you can then slide the bottom half of the board out of the case. With the board also put out of harms way the battery is exposed at the bottom. The battery will need to be prized away from the case as it’s stuck in place with double sided tape. As with all Li-ion batteries be very very careful.

A close-up view of a new battery for a TomTom Go 600 GPS device, showing its black casing and attached wires against a wooden surface.

The old battery and the new one side by side. The new battery on the left has a slightly higher capacity which should retain a little longer life. the original battery is on the right.

Image showing two replacement batteries for the TomTom Go 600, one labeled 'CELLONIC' and the other labeled 'TOMTOM', side by side on a wooden surface.

In the box supplied with my battery was fresh double sided tape, which needs to stuck on the back to hold the battery in place. The new battery is slightly smaller but still sits neatly in the area. Make sure that the wires are near the speaker and not the opposite end or they wont be long enough to connect.

Interior view of a TomTom Go 600 device showing the battery and speaker components.

Take the circuit board and align the bottom of the board to openings. Gently lay the fish the two sets of wires through the hole in the circuit board and then lower the board down into place. Align the screw holes and lightly screw into place. This will allow you to pick the device up and make sure the connections are fully located correctly. Once you are happy with the alignment fully tighten the five screws, do not over tighten. Next re-insert the battery and the speaker cables to the back of the board.

Close-up of the internal circuit board of a TomTom Go 600 GPS device, showing components like connectors, a speaker, and metal shielding.

Hold the screen near the main circuit board that will allow the flat cable to fall above the ribbon connection. I couldn’t take pictures at this point as I needed both hands. While holding the screen still gently guide the flat ribbon into the opening evenly. Do not force the ribbon or it will kink, the ribbon should just slot into place. Once the ribbon is fully inserted in place, slide the white clamp away from the ribbon to clamp the ribbon in place. Both the screen and the ribbon should now be connected. Very lightly pull the screen to make sure the ribbon does not pull out.

Lay the screen onto the case to align the two halves again. Make sure that the sprung connectors are not damaged be fully lowering the screen down. Starting at the bottom snap into place and work up the sides to the top. As you snap the case together make sure the connections at the bottom are stay correctly aligned. The broken clips were at opposite ends of the device so it didn’t prevent re-assembly of the unit.

Close-up view of the bottom side of a TomTom Go 600 GPS device, highlighting the various ports, buttons, and connectors. A hand is holding the device against a wooden surface with tools visible in the background.

Now turn the device on.

A TomTom Go 600 device displaying the startup screen with a world map and the TomTom logo.

Now check that the screen is still touch responsive once the unit has fully started.

A close-up view of a TomTom Go 600 GPS device displaying its main menu with navigation options, held in a person's hand.

Once everything was working I was able to give everything a clean and full charge. The difficult part was separating the two halves without damage. The YouTube video showed it almost falling apart which wasn’t the case. The plastic tools weren’t quite man enough to separate the halves, hence the use of the pen knife for a little more robust leverage. Once apart it was pretty simple to remove the board, replace the battery and re-assemble.

Total time taken: 40 mins

Difficulty Level: 4 out 10

Conclusion: the only real difficulty was taking apart without damage and re-aligning the motherboard ports to the bottom of the case.

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Almost Made It

Last weekend was due to be my first car meet, my good mate Craig sent me a link earlier in the week which was for a show just thirteen or so miles away from me in Lavenham across country. The car was pushed out the garage on the Saturday to de-winterise the car and give it a bit of a clean up. I also did a oil and filter change change with some Millers 20W 50 Semi synthetic oil. I also had a new detailing product I wanted to try and mini project that had waited for the right time to get the car out in the nice weather.

The mini project was a real quick one to replace the headlight retaining rings around the headlights as I detected a little rattle at the end of last year’s shows and found it was from the drivers headlight. I knew exactly what it was, but wasn’t to worried about it at this point. I had made a trip over the winter to get a pair of headlight retaining rings from Mustang Maniac to make sure they matched, I couldn’t have one shiny and one not as shiny could I?

The headlight retaining rings were pretty simple to swap over and I have done a full walkthrough of the process here.

Basically the headlight door comes of after loosening four screws.

The exposed headlight retaining rings are held in place by three screws.

Loosen the three screws and twist the ring counter clockwise a little to release the ring and the headlight itself becomes free.

You can replace the headlight at this point as well for an LED upgrade, like I did here. Or just replace the the rings which was my intention this time. On the left picture below you can tell the difference between the new one at the top of the left hand pic and the old one below it.

While I was at it replacing shiny things I got my mini polisher out and decided to clean the headlight door screws, just because I could.

Will anybody notice, I very much doubt it, but I know they are shiny. Happy with the days quick bit of work I was ready for the car meet the next day.

Sunday morning arrived and where I checked the weather which was sunny, today was going to be great. I started the car and rolled out the garage with over an hour before the start. I realised that I had more fuel than I remembered, just over a quarter of a tank, which would be more than enough to get to the show and back again about twelve miles each way in fact. I could fill up on the way home in my own leisurely time. The usual turn off for me is more of a main road route than the back roads, which can be dirty and you often get idiots in the middle of the roads going much to fast. As I turned into the road barriers stopped me with the dreaded “Road Closed” sign. Somebody was being paid to stand there and watch all the cars turning around. He eventually wondered over to me as I wasn’t turning round, it was obviously too much for him to walk over. We had a very brief exchange of words where I tried to bluff my way through. Unfortunately he was having none of it and walked away mid way through his sentence mumbling under his breath. Now I’m in a bad mood as it meant that I was going to have to reverse back up because I didn’t want to do a ten point turn in the car. The down side was me about to reverse onto a fairly busy roundabout. I think he said ‘follow the diversion signs’ in some sort of half strung together sentence, which would ‘only be a few miles or so’. The irony was the ‘Road Works’ which wasn’t happening with him or the other half a dozen who were also standing around and certainly not working on the road. They could have let me through, but no – Mr. Jobsworth was on the case.

The signs sent me back round to the far side of the town along the way my SatNav was having a mental, with “turn around where possible”. I turned my trusty navigation co-pilot off in order to concentrate on following the road diversion signs, or should I say more like a ‘wild goose chase’? Twenty minutes later I’m still following signs to who knows where. I started to realise something was wrong when I glanced a sign giving directions to Cambridge which was the exact opposite direction I needed to be going. Now I’m literally in the middle of nowhere with no phone signal. I started to sweat as my fuel gauge was running down. I may have mentioned in a few post before, the air was turning blue just like my car and the sky above me. It would be a glorious day to be at a car meet, if I could get there. But no, the diversion muppets who put the signs up were having a laugh at my expense or they got lost themselves.

I reckoned that I had a couple of gallons left and decided to abort the trip as I’m now in a previously undetected black hole that exists in darkest depth of Suffolk. I eventually found some signal and called my mate Craig to say I was lost. He said he would do a fuel run for me if needed, which was very kind of him, if I knew where I was of course to get the fuel in the first place. I opened my Shell app which showed me the location of petrol stations near me. My usual, regular Shell fuel station in Bury St Edmunds was shown to be ‘only’ 15 miles away. My featherweight foot was just resting on the gas pedal and some twenty minutes later I pulled into the gas station. The fuel gauge before on the left, then almost £70 later I was full up again.

I reckon that I had another gallon or so in the tank, but you can’t trust these old gauges. I certainly don’t and tend to fill up when near the 1/4 tank mark which is my ’empty’ guide during the car show season.

The drive home was relaxed, but feeling disappointed. I stopped at a junction to turn right, when pulling away out of nowhere a rather annoying screech on quick throttle. One of belts for the fan/alternator or the power steering belt was slipping. Pulling up back on my drive the belt screech was becoming more pronounced. My day was now getting worse by the minute, I popped the hood, but couldn’t tell which belt it was. The first belt to come of was the power steering and then re-started the car, screech was still there. I then removed the alternator belt and started the car, the screech was gone. Laying the belt on the floor it looked more like an egg where it had sat around the pullies and had stretched over the winter just enough to cause the issue. I cleaned the belt and the pulley V grooves with degreaser, along with a fair amount of isopropanol alcohol to dry the grooves and belt, once cleaned it was refitted back on. The screech had almost gone, only happened on sudden revs, but still there a little. The tension couldn’t be adjusted anymore as the alternator was now on the max adjustment on the bracket. I spoke to Adam at Mustang Maniac who told me that he would send the direct replacement belt and another one which was 1/2″ shorter belt to give me more adjustment on the bracket.

I put the car away after a clean and went inside the house decided to relay my dissatisfaction of the day so far to my ever understanding wife. I plonked myself on the sofa with the hump and felling very sorry for myself.

About an hour or so later Craig pulled up and asked if everything was OK. I had even forgotten to let him know that I had filled up and gotten home safely. Sorry again Craig.

We decided to have a couple of hours of detailing tyres and comparing products, all of which I will be reviewing. The first was the Meguiar’s Ultimate Insane Tire Spray, the full review can be found here. The product we used on the daily car was CarPro DarkSide Tyre And Rubber Sealant, the full review can be found here. Craig loaned me his new product that he had recently bought and liked. He asked me if I wanted to try it on my cars. So we opened a can of chilled soda each, sitting in the warm sun we took some pictures so that I could review the product, which is a nice change as I tend to do them on my own.

Once the tyres were cleaned we tried the CarPro product on the Smart car.

I was very pleased with the results and I will buying some of this product when I get round to ordering it. Time started run away with us as we cleared up and Craig made a move to go back home. It was a good day in the end, catching up with a mate, shame it wasn’t at a car meet itself. That means my first show was a DNF is normally defined as ‘Did Not Finish’, but in my case ‘Did Not Find’ it, so near yet so far.

Hopefully the next proper show is this weekend at Kersey Mill, but the weather forecast doesn’t look that good, maybe I could be forced to miss that one as well.

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Fill Her Up

Many classic cars of the bygone era of the ’60s & ’70s, not just Mustangs were fitted with a fuel filler pipe that was quite big diameter. The fuel back then was Leaded or Four Star fuels to be pumped through a larger nozzle which filled more of the filler pipe, which makes perfect sense. When pumping was complete, the pump would click off and it was job done. However, with the move to the dreaded ethanol based fuels the filler pipe holes were made smaller along with the pump heads themselves. Fuel pumps from today have the much smaller hole which ensure a snug fit and allow the pump to shut off as you would expect. The problem with classic cars owners now have since this change is that the the large diameter filler pipes still take the smaller pumps which fill at similar rates, but at higher pressure. In turn that when the filling is complete, the fuel should stop the nozzle to avoid over filling, but it more often than not doesn’t. The reason is that pumped gas under pressure can splash back around the smaller nozzles, down sides of the filler pipes and out the top. This invariably results with some splash back out of the filler pipe over the paint job, bumper and if I’m unlucky, me if I happened to be standing in the wrong place. With this in mind I tend to go through some performance of getting a microfibre cloth, laying it over the bumper ready to clean up quickly when I top the tank up. I sometimes get strange looks as to what I’m doing before filling up.

This waste of fuel, smell on your clothes and potential damage to the paint work over time has always been an annoyance to me, but it’s part of the ‘joys’ of owning a classic car. I know many other Mustang owners as well as other manufacturers in fact that suffer from this issue. I just happened to be browsing through a Mustang forum where I spotted a link where somebody had modified the 64 – 70 Mustang filler pipes, a totally random link lead me to a discussion. The filler pipe size was exactly the same as the original, but inside is a simple fitted anti splashback valve. The valve is designed for the unleaded fuel pump nozzles sizes of today 13/16″ and should stop the splashback problem.

After a bit more research I got in touch with the guy and ordered one. A couple of weeks later it arrived and got round to fitting it as the sun came out over the weekend. Below shows the inside of the filler pipe with the anti splash back valve.

I have created a full step by step fitting guide for the filler neck here, but I have shown the basics steps of fitting it below.

This is an exact replacement for the standard filler pipe. The only minor difference is the bottom of the filler pipe has a slightly ribbed bottom which should aid in sealing of the hose to the pipe.

The only difference as i mentioned is the internal fuel valve. The definition of fuel ‘valve’ is a piece of sprung metal behind the reduced filler neck size opening. There are a couple of breather holes as well, two at the top and one where the bottom of the flap finishes almost at the bottom of the filler opening. The inner valve is held in place with a few dimples and a bit of JB Weld.

Roll the trunk mat out of the way to expose the top of the fuel tank. I have a a sound deadening mat on top of my polished tank which is semi stuck down. Remove the fuel cap, if you have the security version like mine there is a threaded bolt that goes through the filler panel and held in place by a nylon nut. Undo the nut and remove the security wire and the cap.

There will be four bolts around the outside of the flange which will need to be removed.

Inside the trunk there is a rubber hose clamped in place by two wire fittings. It’s easier to undo both the top and bottom clamps. Either the fuel pipe needs to come out of the rubber hose. Or pull the rubber hose up of the neck of the fuel tank itself. Either way is fine, you just need to remove the pipe from the hose.

In my case the hose came off the tank first. With the fuel pipe now free, remove the hose from the pipe otherwise the filler will not go through the panel as the opening is fairly snug.

Fully remove the pipe along with the cork gasket from the rear panel. Be careful not to let anything full into the open top of the fuel tank, I placed my fuel cap over the opening to prevent anything falling in it.

With the pipe removed I cleaned and applied a long lasting wax to the paint before i added the cork gaskets back on. You only need one gasket, but I like two, as it helps with the alignment of the filler pipe and also gives a little more protection of metal filler pipe flange to the paint.

Add the gasket(s) on the pipe before before feeding the pipe through the rear panel.

With the pipe through the panel it’s easier to fit the hose to the pipe by turning it ninety degrees. Then turn the pipe back round to the correct position and then you can simply press down the hose to the fuel tank opening neck.

With the hose now in place we can add the screws to hold the pipe’s flange to the panel. I started by adding the anti theft bolt through the gaskets and the panel. Add the washer to the front side of the flange, then the second washer inside and finally the nylon lock nut on the inside. Don’t tighten anything up just yet.

Next arrange the clamps how they should be on the rubber hose. When I first fitted the filler pipe and the hose I had the clamps on the inside of the trunk, this mean that things like cloths would catch the bolts. See below right hand photo. I never changed their position until now. The clamps should be between filler pipe and the rear panel so they are out of the way. Left and middle photos below. Lightly tighten the clamps just to hold them in place for now.

Align the gasket(s) up to the holes and add the rest of the screws to the flange and gently tighten up to allow for final adjustments.

With the screws in place start to tighten them up and the bolt for the security wire. Ensure the security wire is aligned with the outer part of the flange, or you won’t be able to fit the cap back back on. Tightening of the bolts or screws will pull the pipe into position on the panel. Now go back to the hose clamps and fully tighten them both up as the rubber will take the difference of alignment up. Recheck all bolts are tight.

The filler pipe was a like for like swap, but now I have little more bling under the trunk with the nickel plating looking great.

From the outside there is no difference to see. But, on the inside there is something (in theory) to stop me getting my regular splashback on fill up. Once I have taken the car for the next fill up I will give the results if the splashback is cured with this little project. It can’t be any worse no matter what happens.

I’m now intrigued to know if any other classic car owners have the same problem, or have hacks that they can share with us.

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Beaten To It

For quite a while I have been thinking to myself, wouldn’t it be good to have a nice reference guide for collectible Mustang memorabilia or for the rarer items from the past. I even thought to myself perhaps I should start looking into it and undertake the monumental task of trying to collate one. I perched myself in a comfy chair and started to look around the internet. Then up popped a book up on one of my searches which was published over twenty years earlier, already covering what I had in mind. I was gutted, but at the same time relieved. The book was authored by Bill Coulter and called Mustang Collectibles which looked to cover more or less what I had in mind. My search on eBay found it for a ridiculous price three times the price of the original publication. I tried to find a new copy, but couldn’t, in the end I settled for a second hand copy found in a USA book store, all for the reasonable and almost original published price of $25 plus shipping of course to the UK.

I reviewed the book here which I thought I should share on my Blogsite. The only downside is that it’s now well out of date by a couple of decades, but that didn’t effect my review score which is based on the time it would have been published. There are over 200 items covered, but it does miss things like third party manufacturers like Avon aftershave bottles way back in the day. Things that are now highly collectible are items related to the 1964 World Trade Fair for the Mustang launch. Throw away items such as entry tickets, leaflets, magazines, sales brochures (I’m still looking for an original 1964 version), original owners manuals, or even the boxes for the items that they came in originally can command strong money. Autographs are obviously are still highly desirable now days, sadly for people today they take selfies instead. It’s not quite the same as somebody taking their time out to sign something for you. I do own verified autographs from Carrol Shelby and Lee Iacocca which are some of my more prized possessions. (All these pics below are from my own collection.)

If anybody knows of another resource which is more up to date, then please do let me know. Realistically I don’t think I could have created the book, as I’m not in the USA and there is just so much memorabilia out there, I wouldn’t know where to start or have the time, maybe it’s a job for retirement. I’m also pretty sure that the people who would know about all these things will have moved up to the great car lot or sales offices in the sky.

During the winter I spend time looking for little upgrades, this year is no different. When I or any of these classic cars, not just Mustangs with large filler necks fill up, the fuel pump doesn’t shut of in time when full and more often than not the car gives a gulp of fuel splosh back out the filler pipe. I did get wise to this fairly common issue pretty quickly though. Now whenever I fill up I always put a cloth over the rear bumper ready to catch any spillage and ready to mop it up, especially off the paint job. While I was looking through some Mustang forums I found a random thread talking about an anti splashback modification which fits within the original filler neck. After checking it was all legit, I ordered one and it came a week or so later, in fact the same day as the collectible book I talk about above.

I will be doing a review and a fitting guide for this mod part soon, only when the weather is nicer of course. It should be a simple fitting but really effective upgrade. It’s an out of sight mod that could make a big difference to my Mustang driving experience, mainly because I now won’t stink of Shell V-Power petrol after a fill up!

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